Wearable Lab : innovation at the center of fashion (1/3)

Captured’écran2018-01-22à17_56_32© VIA FERRATA ETUDIANTS BEAUX ARTS.

On the occasion of Première Vision Paris tradefair’s next edition, the Wearable Lab (a veritable specialized space within the salon) is enriching its offer, with the launch of a whole new space dedicated to fashion startups, an exhibition around the creative process of designer Clara Daguin, and a conferences cycle around innovations transforming the fashion industry.

The intrusion of technology in the fashion universe never stops challenging its codes and practices. In the past few years, the still fuzzy concept of fashiontech. As technology settles in our professional lives, many of us are tempted to add the “tech” particle to the name of our industry (foodtech, autotech, sextech…). But for now, we can’t affirm that new industries are emerging. The reality is indeed made of different industries and cultures trying to come together, while still having trouble understanding each other. It is these connections that we intend to explore through the Wearable Lab space, trying to make sense of it and taking the time to reflect.

What are we talking about when speaking about fashion & innovation?

In order to define this movement, we worked on mapping out the different intersections between the fashion value chain (from creation to after-sales), and the 8 major innovations about to transform our industry: artificial intelligence, big data, blockchain, immersive technologies, the development of new materials, additive manufacturing, the internet of things and robotics.


In order to make it clearer, we selected some of the most telling examples of the evolutions brought by these innovations, and decomposed it into three episodes.


Marketing & market analytics: artificial intelligence, Internet of things and big data

pasted image 0©Amazon Echo Look.

First Strategic Domain of Activity (SDA) of the value chain, market analysis is being augmented by the Internet of things, big data and artificial intelligence. Take Amazon Echo Look as an example. The styling assistant device, working on Amazon’s AI “Alexa”, helps you choose your outfit. Through your use of it, the device traces a wide amount of your data to the Amazon teams, who, in turn, will better understand your tastes, and thus create garments that you will want to buy. Because, yes, Amazon does have its own brands, there are 8 of it sold on their website as of today.

Check the exhibitors list

Creation: new materialx, artificial intelligence, 3D printing and immersive technologies


Creation, key SDA in the value chain, is hoisted to its higher level in the fashion industry. Cradle of the dream, it is its spearhead, and confers it its so fascinating aura. What can innovation bring to such a sacred step? Does it have to be considered as dangerous? Many questions arise around the subject, because indeed, technologies such as artificial intelligence are questioning the creative power of human designers. So, what are the innovations applicable to creation?

Artificial Intelligence & creation: the IBM + Tommy Hilfiger + Fashion Institute of Technology case

Tech firm IBM recently collaborated with Tommy Hilfiger and the Fashion Institute of Technology on a project called “Reimagine Retail”, aiming at exploring how artificial intelligence can identify emerging trends from the fashion market faster than industry insiders, ultimately improving and fueling creative processes.

Through the use of tools like computer vision, natural language understanding and deep learning; the trio tried to uncover how artificial intelligence’s abilities could inject more agility into the Fashion Designer’s job (those tools can also be applied to the distribution field, due to the fact that the gathered insight offer the means to better anticipate demand levels of products, unlocking customization opportunities at a local and hyperlocal scale).

The masterpiece of this collection? A plaid tech jacket, conceived by by FIT senior Grace McCarty and embedded with an innovative color changing thread depending on the wearer’s vocal analysis and social media feed (powered by Watson’s Tone Analyzer tool, which analyses and reacts in near real-time to an individual’s sentiment). The creations also integrate environmentally friendly fibers, resulting in sustainable and highly customizable pieces. Finally, three of the six designs from FIT were showcased during NRF’s Big Show in New York from the 14th to the 16th of January.

Ask for the Wearable Lab agenda

New materials

The progress made in the development of new materials is driving our imagination forward at a great pace: with materials facilitating the integration of electronics into clothing, or even sustainable materials produced from waste, we can imagine that, in the near future, we will have augmented, durable and functional clothing.

Take the example of Kyorene, the first player to develop, manufacture and sell a range of graphene oxide and wire-blend fibers for a variety of industrial and consumer textile applications. These fibers and yarns incorporate anti-bacterial and anti-odor effects, UV protection, inherent infrared and heat dissipation properties for body temperature regulation, an anti-insect function, and good mechanical stability. resistance to many washes.

Another example is that of the Italian startup Orange Fiber: using orange skins from juice production sites, the startup transforms them into cellulose yarns – which are resembling those of silk – then woven for the luxury market. The startup has recently made a name for itself through a capsule collection for the Italian brand Salvatore Ferragamo.

3D printing


3D printing is a technology that is increasingly being talked about thanks to the impressive opportunities it creates for many industries. In the world of fashion, for example, it allows the creation of innovative structures, like the spectacular creations of the designer Iris van Herpen.

Immersive technologies

Immersive technologies, including virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR), offer new possibilities for creation. For example, Google’s Tilt Brush virtual reality design application lets you immerse yourself in a virtual world for drawing in 3 dimensions. Ultimately, we imagine that these kinds of technologies will be connectable to hardware and software like those of Lectra, and thus fluidize the process of creating fashion.

Curious to discover more on the subject? Visit the Wearable Lab space at Première Vision, February 13-15 in Villepinte, Paris. We will also be on site to host a Facebook live video during which we will discuss with exhibiting startups around their latest innovations and their vision of the future of fashion through innovation.

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