As every season – and in spite of the unprecedented circumstances – the Updating survey canvassed selected international buyers from April to May 2020.
Marked by doubts as well as hope, and a powerful shared desire to imagine, design and build future collections in a new way, the current situation resonates through the choices made by the international buyers interviewed.
The survey confirmed buyers’ fully assumed attraction for timeless beauty, a hunger for high-quality and durable materials, along with a search for eco-friendly fabrics, especially through a preference for natural fibres. Timeless but never basic materials that dissimulate, behind an outward restraint, colourful fantasy, subtle irregularities and deft sophistication.
Recoloured animal motifs
Animal motifs have been making their presence felt for several seasons, and has by now attained a timeless quality. This season, it wasn’t the blurry copy-cat versions that caught buyers’ eyes, but rather the extroverted interpretations. Animal prints are moving in a colourful Tachist direction in synthetic interpretations, calling forth super-short cocktail dresses in animal-patterned jacquards, with exaggerated sleeves and multiple gathers for an exuberant effect.
Fabrics | Jacquard| malfroy million, France | Réf : 30010 – Co : jacquard funcky savane| 100%PL | See more
Fabrics | Jacquard| SKYTEX, China | Réf : SKFH938481 – Co : GREEN PANTHER| BCI52% W19% A17% P12% | See more
In evening wear, body-hugging dresses and tops appealed to the buyers surveyed. And for these, laces play on full floral compositions, where flowers are invasive and covering, patterns grow opaque, and surfaces brim with colourful and shimmering bouquets. They are worked in synthetic vegetal shades such as “virgin forest” green, “raspberry botox” or “plastic violet”, all drawn from the S/S 21 colour range , to sketch out sophisticated but daringly energised silhouettes. In geometric versions, laces are simplified and their lines break up back-grounds into colourful flat tints.
Fabrics | Lace| Erco Pizzi srl, Italy | Réf : 1249 Cotone LR – Co : 1249 Cotone LR| 50%-Vi 30%-Pa 20% | See more
Fabrics | Lace| DENTELLES MERY, France | Réf : 49418G – Co : 49418G| 79%COTON 21% POLYAMIDE | See more
Fabrics | Lace| Jean Bracq, France | Réf : 8400- Co : 8400 | Polyester | See more
Deceptively simple stripes
Stripes – playing on a look of apparent simplicity – are still widely favoured in the casual segment. Whether styled in stick, banker or tennis versions, graphic designs are reassuring, strongly vaunting their freshness. Influenced by a genderless direction, volumes strive to be unisex, worn oversized and trimmed with workwear details. But beneath this seeming simplicity, surfaces are enlivened by natural fibres. Subtly figured cotton grounds in a seersucker vein, whether creponned or textured, and linen blends with a sophisticated irregularity eschew any hint of rusticity, and fabrics are expressed visibly and lightly.
Fabrics | Colour-woven| Marini Industrie spa, Italy | Réf : dis. 2800 – Co : dis. 2800 62130 | 58%WV 38%VI 4%EA | See more
Fabrics | Colour-woven| Lineaesse, Italy | Réf : ANDROMEDA 20 – Co :ANDROMEDA 20 | 80% VI 16% CA 2% PL 2% PA | See more
Fabrics | Prints| HOKKOH CO., LTD., Japan | Réf : OSK-300-1D – Co : Printed fabric | Cotton 100% | See more
Tweeds and checks
Classic woollens like houndstooth checks and tweeds incorporate gratingly coloured yarns to give a new spin to suitings marked by their extreme lightness. Hands are neat and compact for a rounded, springy and dynamic effect. Performance is never far from view, but notably subtle, thanks in particular to the use of double-face fabrics with tweed or checked motifs. Tailoring items, fitted pants and belted jackets styled with imposing shoulders opt for an elegant look designed for a lifestyle incorporating all the new tools of urban mobility. This season especially, the preference is on natural fibres with lively textures. Mid-summer shows a preference for the refined freshness of linens, and the start of the winter season lets us imagine elegant tweedy woollens in high-quality, anything-but-rustic wool-cashmere blends.
Fabrics | Suitings| GLARE., Italy | Réf : 91683T/MAISON20 – Co : 91683T/MAISON20 | 97% CO 3% EA 67% VI 33% CO | See more
Fabrics | Woollens| Harris Tweed Hebrides., United Kingdom | Réf : HF703-A3 – Co : HF703-A3 | 100% WO | See more
Fabrics | Colour-woven| Fox Brothers, United Kingdom | Réf : FS30ST/A2917/11 : Fox Journey| 100% WO | See more
International buyers voted overwhelmingly in favour of decorations manifesting a continuity with previous seasons, as if seeking reassurance in this time of uncertainty. In a sign of this desire to get down to what is Essential, first expressed at the Première Vision show in February, fine Essentials remain a key element to take into account when building one’s S/S 21 offer.