Women’s fashion players are redefining their priorities – this season, differentiation has to come through in more than just the look. Added-value is generated by the quality of materials and eco-responsible approaches rather than decorative overload. Choices for materials, decorations and colours evoke freshness, do away with visual complexity and show a liking for handles and behaviours inspired by silkies. A silk influence that’s broken down in chic or casual everyday versions.
You can find the these womenswear fabrics, as revealed by the Best survey, at the Première Vision Marketplace to source online.
Tops & dresses
Riding the wave of freshness, and echoing the no-gender trend, women’s buyers have appropriated men’s shirtings. A very free appropriation, favouring blends that fluidify cottons and offbeat takes on the colour codes of classic stripes and checks.
While buyers are looking for less exaggerated fantasy this season, it’s nonetheless to be found everywhere, especially in plains for dresses and tops. Front and centre: finely grainy surfaces, light crepes, delicately pleated knits.
Buyers are saying no to choosing between the comfort of athleisure and silky refinement – going instead for knits that are both sensual and easy-wearing. Hence the success for thickened and stretchy fluid fabrics and fine fleeces in blends with viscose and other artificial fibres.
Fabric choices for tops are moving away from boldly showy visuals. This season, shine is preferred when vibrating, in silky versions with discreet shimmers, in plains with washed satins with partially attenuated reflections, and wavy versions, with smooth fluid knits.
Jackets & ensembles
The silky influence is multifaceted and inspires the selections right down to jacket and pant weights. Drape with a full consistency and roundness in plains, very dense satins, smooth and full suitings, drape combined with fluidity, to deconstruct ensembles and outerwear pieces.
This season, the plant-fibre wave is being felt across the board. In women’s, it can be seen in the success of a shantung spirit and linen-y silkies, plains enriched with refined irregularities, chic linens and deceptively raw precious tweeds.
Neat and fresh
While plains are on the rise this season, choices in terms of fantasy take a very clear direction. They’re led by a search for freshness, with very neat piqués and square structures and boldly contrasting, finer, spaced-out tennis stripes.
Silky & casual
Feminine outerwear shows requests swinging between precious cottons and everyday silkies. Buyers want fluidity with greater consistency and suppleness with more sophistication. The crossing of these two desires results in a boost for silkie-relaxed hybrids in cupro or lyocell blends, with washed or lightly wrinkled finishings on lustrous qualities.
The most sought-after motifs for Spring Summer 21 depict foliage, supplanting flowers or geometry, which usually lead the pack in the Best survey. This plant exoticism is liked pictorial, water-coloured or gouache in flat tints. Whatever the drawing technique, visual simplification is a must, with fewer colours, neat graphics and mostly mid-sized motifs.
Favoured transparencies are decorative and set off patterns playing with empty space. Burnt-outs and cut-yarn jacquards are preferred striped, leafy or in stylised floral versions. Prints on voile or organza grounds, embroideries traced on evanescent tulle and very airy laces gain ground in the requests.
Metallic at heart
A notable success for metallic aspects in silkies, lace and embroidery. One particularity this season is that buyers are turning to more discreet metallics, a shine derived from the yarn that reveals itself subtly, enhances the preciousness of embellishments or is delicately expressed on semi-transparent grounds.
Selections for flowers, which are omnipresent in the collections, take two specific directions. Large, widely spaced and airy or, conversely, mini and so close together they cover the print ground. The latter version is preferred in tone-on-tone multi-colours, while large scale flowers are preferred on light grounds.