Conducted under exceptional circumstances, this season’s Updating survey canvassed select international buyers this past April and May 2020. Amply reflecting the emotional impact of the health crisis and its consequences, the survey showed that fashion is as adaptable and flexible as ever in reinventing its future.
Always a strong proponent of action and change, the fashion industry is already in the starting blocks, ready to leap into the future. This is probably what led international buyers to confirm their interest in more sophisticated casual wear, marked by a dynamic but body-friendly suppleness. The round, dense yet light fabrics preferred in the survey speak to a new, decidedly elegant comfort.
Tops and dresses
For tops and dresses, knits that enrobe the body stand out as popular choices.
Fine and feminine fleeces champion freshness and soft comfort, in cotton-viscose blends elaborated in boxy hoodies with large kangaroo pockets.
Knits are also suppler this season thanks to new, naturally agile two-way stretch fabrics, and blends pairing responsible performance with innovative fibers such as soy biopolymers.
Spacer knits with their assertive roundness inject a certain serene springiness, and follow the body as it moves, especially in long, second-skin dresses and tops with a touching and generous simplicity.
New polo and tee-shirt tops and dresses are also enhanced with a subtly moving and sophisticated texture thanks to micro structures – think piqués and micro-jacquards- on silky and shiny grounds.
In shirts, comfortably full-cut caftan or men’s-shirt styles lean to washed cottons for a matchlessly soft feel set off by surface effects – shivering and lively fabrics such as micro-seersuckers or crepons.
Fabrics | Knits| A. Sampaio, Portugal | Réf : 65952 – Co : Macro pique | 100% Org CO [GOTS] | See more
Fabrics | Knits| YOONIA TEX CO.,LTD, South Korea | Réf : YK-304/L – Co : CORDURA YOGA HEAVY | CORDURA(91%)LYCRA(9%) | See more
Fabrics | Knits| Mackent Group Co., Ltd., Taïwan | Réf : DUB-0357C-M – Co : Spacer fabric with moisture | 95.9% Polyester 4.1% Elastane | See more
Fabrics | Knits| KINAN KNITTING CORP, Ltd., Japan | Réf : Organic Cotton Pique – Co : Organic Cotton Pique | 100%CO | See more
Jackets and coordinated separates
Cottons for jackets and separates are also enlivened with texture, yet the weaves are supple, to create enveloping fabrics. Predominantly natural blends including viscose, linen and recycled artificial fibers – the desire for traceability is always part of the equation – lend these fabrics a springy look. Here we can imagine skirts or trousers that are quite fitted or, on the contrary, cut full and far from the body for maximum ease of movement.
Cotton-y and linen-y fabrics, which remain quite popular in the survey, are enriched with fine yet lively irregularities. Pant styles take a page from menswear, and feature maxi lengths, markedly pleated waists for an assertive fullness, and big patch pockets.
Skirts play on asymmetry and are split on the side or knotted at the waist for a dynamic and feminine look. Tweedy new-generation tweed ensembles create a hybrid raw/ precious look – perfect for fashioning the safari looks that take center stage this season, and high-waisted shorts with workwear details.
Fabrics | Colour-woven| OZLEM KUMAS SAN TIC LTD STI, Turkey | Réf : Sirius_185160 col.5_/ – Co : Cotton Tweed | 90%Cotton 10%Polyester | See more
Fabrics | Casual| Manifattura Emmetex S.p.a., Italy | Réf : BATCH – Co : BATCH| 74% LI DELAVE’ 26% SE | See more
Fabrics | Colour-woven| HOKKOH CO., LTD., Japan | Réf : 325-1300-1 – Co : Wavy Chambray| 100%Cotton | See more
Fabrics | Plain| GLARE, Italy | Réf : GL43107 – Co : GL43107| 62% LI 36% VI 2% EA | See more
Suppleness and energy are clearly favored in the Updating survey, whether for fluid or tailored items. Plains confidently assume their round appeal, while the feeling of substance – notably present – is elaborated in a lighter vein, for fabrics that take on a new ease and seek out a new agility, to conjure up elegant and sensual casual pieces for next S/S 21.