S/S 21 UPDATING: a focus on fluidity The - Spring Summer 21 - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris
The Updating survey, conducted this April – May 2020 of select international buyers, confirmed how very essential eco-responsibility is in the S/S 21 collections. The quest for traceability is no longer merely an option, and takes on a global dimension, covering everything from fibre production to garment transformation, and drives both the season’s creative research and tactile innovations.
Buyers surveyed particularly favoured natural and cellulosic fibres, which can help create a thickened fluidity. Among them, new blends – especially linen-viscose, linen-cupro or tencel, organic cottons blended with recycled cottons and recycled and recyclable synthetics – are emerging to provide compact but supple handles, which were highlighted in the survey. Treatments are also meticulously selected to lend a subtle shine. Aesthetics, eco-responsibility and innovation have never seen their stars so closely aligned.
Tops and dresses
In tops and shirts, cellulosic blends are marked by a washed and softened suppleness just right for the season’s key shapes. These light and airy fabrics combine density and movement, perfect for full and extra-long shirts, or more casual cropped and boxy tops for a genderless version.
Blouses feature exaggeratedly puffy sleeve details, while fine-strapped tops are embellished with delicate flounces mimicking the look of petals. Worked in soft colourways, these can be worn with a pair of loose shorts in a cotton-Lyocell blend and a big, soft casual tote bag, for a more rustic, bohemian option.
Blouses feature soft and washed handles and a runny, creamy fluidity readily enlivened by subtly textured surfaces, including finely calibrated irregularities and micro-fancy weaves. Dresses take a generous approach to volume, length, and asymmetry, and are elaborated in slightly springy fabrics that invite movement with a light touch.
Fluidity also moves into knits thanks to skilfully elaborated stretch alternatives that create a truly graceful ease. Second-skin stretch jerseys in silk or mercerised viscose blends are perfect for the season’s new sleeveless tees. Here as well, textured structures are favoured, with ribs and jacquard effects to be found on extra-long caftan style dresses set off by silky reflections, an extremely subtle iridescent shine, or a discreetly satiny gleam – a long, lean feminine silhouette to hit the beaches this summer, accessorised with a large tote bag and minimalist, natural-leather sandals.
Sportier looks, including the season’s neo-sweaters – which garnered high marks in the survey – grow more sophisticated looking thanks to wearer-friendly stretch.
Fabrics | Casual| ARTE SPIRITO S.R.L., Italy | Réf : 19/095 – Co : 19/095| 100%VI | See more
Fabrics | Casual,BEST S|S 21,MENSWEAR TOPS & SHIRTS| CANCLINI., Italy | Réf : BESTSS21_CANCLINI_01 – Co : BESTSS21_CANCLINI_01 | Not specified | See more
Fabrics | Casual| CAN TEKSTİL, Turkey | Réf : NM16021 – Co : B | 47%PES 52%VI 1%LYC | See more
Fabrics | Knits,BEST S|S 21,WOMENSWEAR TOPS & DRESSES | WALTEX TRICOT MANUFACTURE, Italy | Réf : BESTSS21_LOVELY_314 – Co : BESTSS21_LOVELY_314 | 55% SE 45% CO | See more
Fabrics | Knits,BEST S|S 21,WOMENSWEAR TOPS & DRESSES | GULLE TEKSTIL, Turkey | Réf : BESTSS21_13620 – Co : BESTSS21_13620 | 100% NAIA | See more
Fabrics | Knits | ISIL TEKSTIL, Turkey | Réf : 995762 – Co : 30/1 Viscose Knit | %100 Viscose | See more
Jackets and ensembles
Coordinated women’s suits were given a special nod from international buyers. Suits featuring both longer skirts and trousers proudly vaunt a kind of sophisticated casualness. Crepes are suppler without losing any of their nice consistency, and emerge throughout the season’s many tailored looks – from the new longer, broad-shouldered jackets to be worn loose and oversized, to men’s style trousers with very defined pleats and wide legs for suits that happily surf a unisex vibe.
A languid fluidity is obtained thanks to the use of beautiful, dense and heavier viscose fabrics with a draped look, or ultra-lightweight suitings with an energetic, springy air. These fabrics can also be found in the jumpsuit proposals that continue to number amongst the products selected for next season.
Skirts are full bodied, emphasising a confident and energetic silhouette for womenswear that’s ready to step into the coming season with energy and enthusiasm.
Vaporous, misty, floating skirts boast a silky fluidity and are teamed with lingerie-style camisoles and streamlined boots to wear by day for a very 90’s grunge look, or with strappy, square-toed sandals for summer evenings.
Fabrics | Casual,BEST S|S 21,WOMENSWEAR JACKETS & ENSEMBLES |Visionland, South Korea | Réf : BESTSS21_VEN0033 – Co : BESTSS21_VEN0033 | 100%TN | See more
Fabrics | Plain |Uni Textile Co.,Ltd., Japan | Réf : KKF7484GS – Co : Dyed Satin Air Flow Finish | 100%PL | See more
For S/S 21, international buyers are captivated by materials with fluidity. A fluidity that strives for a certain feeling of consistency and refinement, and which imparts a cleverly sophisticated casual feel to the coming collections.
Be sure to also explore our other detailed articles drawing on the results of this international survey, to help you build and Update your S/S 21 collection.
