S/S 21 MUST-HAVES FOR EVENING: styles and materials The - Spring Summer 21 - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris
Cocktail looks for next spring summer are more extravagant than showy. Fiercely free, committed, and not the least inclined to keep a low profile at city evenings, S/S 21 womenswear refuses conformity, dares to combine the unexpected, and doesn’t hesitate to spin, sift and rewrite the codes of eveningwear. Exceptional techniques and skills take pride of place, with over-the-top jacquards, over-embroidered tulle and plays on structures to amplify volumes.
Shine is discreet, intermittent, to make room for a joyful and colourful elegance.
To build your S/S 21 collection, browse our online selection of specific products for eveningwear.
Couture tops and dresses
Fabrics lend sophistication to pared-down shapes with an outward simplicity. Tops and dresses in a lingerie spirit – slim, side-split, finely strapped – are combined with satiny and draping fabrics such as silk and viscose, and enhance the body’s sensuality by precisely accompanying its every movement.
Surfaces are also enlivened with the barest shivers, thanks to finely grainy crepes and crepons, tiny wavelet shaped pleats, or winkled surfaces that showcase deep V-necklines. Styles are worn against the skin, or layered over a side-slit cropped pant, emphasising a long and lean silhouette.
Second-skin effects are given a special nod, with buttoned dresses and skirts elaborated on tulle grounds scattered here and there with very opulent-looking gemstones. Accessories showcase dense colourways and mix with other elements, including appliquéd pearls, flowers and precious stones, for an updated neo-romantic style. Layers are offset with extra-long and slightly flared jeans, evoking a barely disguised ’90s reference.
Occasionally styles draw boldly on couture references.
Asymmetrical strapless dresses reveal the shoulders, and are decorated with exaggerated flounces, bows and outsized flower-like decoration. This touch of extravagance is balanced out by the rigour of structured, naturally stretch fabrics such as extraordinary jacquards and heavy satins. Jacquards also grow more voluminous, enlivened with moving, delicately textured surfaces.
Fabrics | Silkies| Giotex F.lli Giorgetti & C.Prato srl, Italy | Réf : 10853 Sabrina – Co : yarn dyed double face | 87%PL 13%SE | See more
Fabrics | Casual | TEXLOVER srl, Italy | Réf : LETTER col.80.345 – Co : LETTER col.80.345 | 100%VI | See more
Fabrics | Jacquard | MIC（Haining Tianyi), China | Réf : YT30040 – Co : 100%Acetate Crinkle Fabric | AC100% | See more
Fabrics | Embroidery | KHODER BROS, Turkey | Réf : KHB1505- Co : KHB ART.1505 | 15%PA 20%PL 65%RA | See more
Fabrics | Jacquard | Canepa, Italy| Réf : D1489 design 234951 – Co : jacquard matelasse | 41%WV-41%SE-18%ME | See more
Accessories | Metal or plastic accessories | AZGA, India | Réf : FLOWER BROOCH – Co : FLOWER BROOCH | Brass, enamel, 22kt gold plating | See more
Accessories | Functional accessories | GAFFORELLI Srl, Italy | Réf : 9276_camp – Co : Floral rhinestone button | Crystal | See more
Skirts and pants
Skirts and pants showcase new proportions and a restrained use of asymmetry, and move towards a more casual sophistication. Heavy satins are draped around the waist to create a new take on the sarong, in a mid-calf length that’s very chic for summer cocktails.
Pleated skirts remain evening must-haves, and feature metallic reflections to twirl at the slightest motion.
In short versions, skirts with shirred puckerings or tight smockings emerge in printed versions, or with just a hint of shine.
Pants are worn high-waisted, with fitted pockets, and create a sharp silhouette thanks to marked front pleats, with a fullness augmented by the use of firm or fine satins and crispy viscose.
Fabrics | Silkies | Ruffo Coli Tessuti S.r.l., Italy| Réf : 19914.0001.000 – Co : PLISSE’ SOLEIL 12276 STAMP. – 19914.0001.000 | 70%SILK 30%POLYESTER | See more
Fabrics | Silkies | Ruffo Coli Tessuti S.r.l., Italy| Réf : BESTSS21_19865 – Co : BESTSS21_19865 | 100% SE | See more
Fabrics | Plain| Bucol, France| Réf : C4140000TPCHZ – Co : Satin Granite Viscose| 100%VI | See more
Outstanding decoration
Decoration for S/S 21 pays tribute to a simplified vision of nature. Exotic flowers and foliage are worked in exuberant, imposing, airily spaced-out versions that allow grounds to breath.
Decorations also have fun with transparency and imitation. Evanescent, airy voiles and organzas make use of emptied-out decoration – stylised foliage and flowers in particular – to intermittently reveal the skin, and suggest a truly subtle sensuality.
Shine remains a must for the Evening sector, but strives for refinement in metallic aspects, whether in silkies, lace, embroideries or stylised jacquards. For example, Lurex cut-yarns in a jacquard are revealed one by one, or a responsible coating on pared-down and geometric zig-zag motifs.
Fabrics | Jacquard| malfroy million, France| Réf : 29476 – Co : jacquard Glam | 87%PL 13%SE | See more
Fabrics | Embroidery| KHODER BROS GROUP, United Arab Emirates | Réf : KHB – 1572 – Co : 1572 | 87%PL 13%SE | See more
Fabrics | Silkies| BUCOL, France | Réf : U26A0000TPCU1 – Co : Crepe Lurex | 65% Soie, 35% PL | See more
Fabrics | Jacquard| BUCOL, France | Réf : J6626894CL001 – Co : GAUFRE GEOMETRIQUE | 33%AC 32%AI 27%PL 8%PA | See more
This season, the style codes for evening are dazzlingly combined, and subtlety and shine seek to be more versatile than obvious. The newest looks confidently reflect their couture references, and are given a new spin thanks to fabrics boasting a truly modern ease, thus defining a more relaxed approach to sophistication.
Also find our Style Focus Womenswear S/S21 take-aways for Spring Summer 21.
