The Première Vision Paris show closed its doors this past 13 February, and the Marketplace is taking this opportunity to highlight the leading trends presented by the fashion teams in the forums – trends to discover now via our selection on the website.
This S/S 21 season, exhibitors are tinging their lines with a nourishing light that lit up the show’s creative proposals. Symbolising this light, and of the desire for naturals so strongly expressed at the show, were evocations of honey and a certain minerality, which inspired a number of exhibitors, particularly leather and accessories specialists.
This influence could be found in the increasingly sustainable and creative finishings, in the decorations and choices of exotic skins, as well as a colour range featuring a full array of honeyed hues.
For S/S 21, tanners turned their full attention to finishings. Subtly delectable, they’re designed to enhance skins’ individual characteristics without ever altering their essence.
A light coating on a crackled nubuck looks almost like a light froth – a crystallized and barely frosted glaze.
Liquid, syrupy, sometimes almost solidified lacquers follow the fingers as they skim across a leather, like a fluid nectar gently coating an ultra- supple calf skin to nourish it, and lend it a special lustre. Without ever masking the grain, this delicate elixir plays with the texture in a crocodile skin, illuminating its rough, uneven quality, a bit like the sap of a spruce tree crystallising on its gnarly trunk. This kind of organic minerality is also to be found in accessories.
Leather | Full grain leather | Masini, Italy| Ref : METAL TOUCH – Co METAL TOUCH |Half hide| See more
Leather | Full grain leather | TMM, Tunisia| Ref : POEME – Co POEME |Half hide | See more
Leather | Nubuck | Fratelli Guarino, Italy | Ref : Eclissi – Co Eclissi | Sheep | See more
From yellow acacia to spruce honeydew
This season, luminous colour found a strong resonance in the shades of honey offered by the show’s exhibitions: from young honeys, to more or less richly coloured syrups, to mature, darker and pigmented honeys.
In accessories, polished horn recalls a freshly crystallised honey with a creamy texture. The links of a plexiglas chain, bathed in the spectrum of the light, reveal a subtle palette of a colourful resin fossilized for eternity. Plastic pochettes bring to mind a magical potion brimming with a limpid and transparent amber nectar. Warm tones are broken down on skins. A caramel blond intensifies the creamy, velvety texture of a glazed calf skin, and a potent chocolate coats a crocodile skin, for an exquisite syrupy glaze with an impeccable shine.
Accessories | Buttons | Zanchi Giovanni di Zanchi Maurizio & C. snc, Italy| Ref : ZC17.19BM – Co Horn Terminal |100% Horn| See more
Accessories | Packaging | ESTRO Srl, Italy| Ref : A342 – Co AMBER STUDIO | PVC| See more
Accessories | Metal or plastic accessories| LABAM SRL, Italy| Ref : 30603 – Co chain 7 links| Plexiglass | See more
Leather | Full grain leather | ENES, Turkey| Ref : Aston Natural – Co Aston Natural |Not specified | See more
Leather | Exotic leather | CARAVEL Pelli Pregiate S.p.A., Italy| Ref : ALLAMXXSOSHIB – Co Alligatore Mis. Opac Shibori |Full hide| See more
Amber shades and their organic minerality particularly enhance the grain of leathers and the tactile roughness of exotic skins. Water snakes scales, subtly and partially dyed pale yellow, imitate the alveolar structure of a honeycomb freshly opened to the air. New-generation vegetal tanning processes retain the suppleness of bubbled lamb skins, worked in matt versions to bring out all their natural beauty. Laminated snake skins in multicoloured or whitened versions catch the summer’s rays and bring the material to life. Creative paths fuse the animal and vegetal.
Leather | Exotic leather | Reptilis., Italy| Ref : 41RI – Co Hardwicke Rio |Full hide| See more
Leather | Nubuck | Azais & cie, France | Ref : NTDF2019 – Co Crispé Nubuck Terre de feu |Full hide| See more
Leather | Exotic leather | Dolmen S.p.A, Italy | Ref : Chiessi I20/7880 – Co Chiessi I20/7880 |Snake| See more
Liquid, pasty or almost crystallized, lacquers and finishings nourish and polish skins with delectable and amber harmonies. From fossilized resin to organic fluids, S/S 21 sees the emergence of hybrid combinations of plants and animals, for endlessly surprising creative choices.