The Gratacos collection keeps a vibrant, colourful flame alive for winter. Sophisticated jacquards juxtapose modernised plains with an eye on originality.
For AW 1920, Spanish weaver Gratacos hasn’t closed the door on a certain extravagance. “The winter season is always a challenge for silks,” says Rosa Pujol, style director. “In the past we expanded in the direction of sports, but this time we’re focusing on a seductive appeal and bright fabrics.”
The “trans-seasonal” fabric range illustrates this stance. Colours are acidic and intense: orange, yellow, lilac, pink. Shine emerges in lamés and jacquards worked in fancy yarns. Chenille yarns lend a vibration to surfaces. In terms of motifs, floral and geometric patterns are nicely complemented by lively stripes and Tachist-inspired prints.
In higher-end products, evening-dress products feature mixed weaves and cut-yarns so as to lighten precious jacquards.
On these dense grounds, quite light and soft to the touch, colours such as blue and orange have controlled vibrations. Structures in a Chanel-spirit and reflections introduce stronger shades. Floral motifs predominate.
As a counterpoint, a more classic range of fabrics injects a touch of modern subtlety. Jacquards are worked with a subdued approach to fantasy. The colour palette is calmed through dark colourways, white and greys. Floral motifs are lighter and more easily read.
“On the whole,” says Rosa Pujol, “this luminous collection offers a well thought out variety of products for a smart and flexible wardrobe.”