There’s a yearning to rediscover our roots and invoke the incredible power of nature and its extraordinary power of regeneration. Authentic and innovative, linen infuses the season’s trends with a warm and caring softness….
Linen fiber is cultivated without any need for irrigation*, without GMOs and with few inputs, and is overwhelmingly produced in Europe, which represents 85% of global production (*guaranteed at 99.9%). These are appealing features for brands looking for eco-responsible developments and wishing to meet the expectations of consumers seeking meaning in their purchases.
Widely reputed to be the “summery” fabric par excellence, linen this season is anxious to cast off preconceived ideas and prove its bona fides as a winter material. Its remarkable thermal performance, stemming from its laboratory-proven breathability and insulating properties ensures a comfortable, soft yet moderate warmth that is especially interesting for winter.
Well aware of its undeniable advantages as well as its potential for innovation, exhibitors have developed materials that reinvent linen, offering both surprising performance and sensory appeal.
Without a doubt, linen is set to deftly expand its remarkable appeal in AW 21/22.
Preview the newest linen fabrics on the Marketplace to build your AW21/22 collections.
Blends with other fibers, particularly natural ones, prove an interesting option to enhance linen’s own properties, endowing it with an innovative and attractive look and feel.
For winter, hybrid blends of linen and wool – another fiber providing outstanding natural thermal insulation – create fabrics boasting both eco-consciousness and thermal performance, and provide a welcoming warmth.
In knits, linen mixed with high-quality wools steers developments towards a luxurious simplicity.
In terms of wovens, fabric weights and blends are characterized by generous handles that can be imagined in full-cut and enveloping clothing items, just right to snuggle up in.
Sensual and comfortable, linen stirs introspection and a desire to reconnect with oneself – particularly precious qualities given today’s context.
Compact linen-y knits, sometimes featuring elastane, can be used next winter to create supple, second-skin clothing that feels like a comforting cuddly toy.
Long dresses and tee-shirts in long sleeved, close-fitting versions have an appealingly elegant simplicity.
Fabrics are sometimes embellished with a discreet fancy-effect in the knit – jerseys, piqués and fleece – or in the choice of Lurex©-style yarn blends.
To adapt to seasonal variations while maintaining its comfort properties, linen-y wovens are blended with cotton or viscose, and grow heavier.
A loose-fitting jeans look with workwear details cut from a sturdy gabardine can be paired with an exaggeratedly long unisex shirt for a rustic yet chic look. Long, fluid men’s-style shirts are banking on linen’s versatility – as seen in double-weave linens or linen-cotton blends, with warm and soft brushed flannel-like handles with a high coziness potential.
When combined with wool, lyocell or cotton, linen also imparts comfort and performance to more structured garments. Surfaces are calmly enlivened with subtle, blurry yet always reassuring checks, for tailored items – especially jackets and pants – that are sophisticated yet relaxed.
Surfaces aren’t overtly extravagant, that’s not the story – and yet, by growing more textured, they manage to surprise us, stirring senses yearning to be awakened. Whether delicately bouclé, chiné or wrinkled, fabrics are gently but surely animated, bringing surfaces to life and evoking a cozy cocoon to take refuge in, to unwind in.
While exhibitors bet on a reassuring authenticity in their newest products, they’ve also doubled down on furthering linen’s impressive technical prowess. Linen plain-wovens are coated, for hybrid looks bridging the tailored and Sport&Tech universes. Double-faces are right for creating multi-faceted trench-coats that are both reversible and rain-resistant.
Both compact linens and more casual linen-cotton blends – oiled or waxed and featuring varying degrees of shine – introduce a low-key elegance to waterproof performance, just perfect for small leather goods or next season’s outerwear.
With its reassuring authenticity and caring performance features, the autumn-winter 21/22 linens meet our need for security with thoughtful and complex solutions, brilliantly betting on innovation and creativity.