The AW 21/22 season continues to find inspiration in the natural world, with the full power of nature becoming more meaningful than ever. Evincing a desire to go beyond the superficial and take the time to carefully work products, the season explores the very heart of matter, its mysterious origins and fascinating depths. Matter’s implacable imaginary world both reassures and surprises – an invitation to reveal the precious and appealing world deftly hidden within the harshness of mineral surfaces.
Partly influenced by terrestrial volumes and strata, this season’s accessories seek a tangible solidity, a winning combination of refinement and strength.
Solid rocks are adorned with coatings or gilt leaf to highlight the peaks of a snowy mountain lit by a wintry sun.
Geometric surfaces are embellished with a fine, shiny and delicate coating that brings simple round buttons to life.
Mother-of-pearl buckles or buttons can at times mimic the foamy look of mossy vegetation, as in the multiple greenish reflections emerging on an olivine polished by the elements. Others are more sophisticated, with subtle chromatic mixes evoking mystical, metamorphic stones, from multicolored fluorites to jade, lapis, agate and more.
Some of the season’s fabrics take a graphic direction, hybridizing buried minerals and undergrowth vegetation through abstract designs, like patchy vegetation imitating oxidized semi-precious stones.
Dark and mysterious hues balance a variety of warm coppery colorways punctuated by hints of sulfur green.
On dark grounds, coatings and coppery metallic leaves gently kiss the surface of fabrics to enhance them – ideal fabrics to develop the season’s elegant pieces.
The grains of skins are also revealed through darkened shades, with faux-black leathers enhanced by colorful flows of lava straight from underground passages.
Gummy or waxy aspects achieved through thick lacquerings or coatings, as if gushing from the boiling red earth, congeal on skins. The rough surfaces of deeply black full-grain leather are sheathed in subtle, barely perceptible lacquers suggesting a basalt or obsidian tar, emerging from the thick, stifling heat.
Reptile-printed or embossed, skins are covered in coppery metallic coatings and recall strange, fantastical imitations evoking both animals and precious stones. A cross of iron oxide and scarab shells, earthly depths unleash amazing bursts of light.
The season’s designs delight in harnessing the mineral universe and distorting it with realistic graphic treatments. Optical effects fuse and mingle, playing games of pretend. Naïve and colorful elements revisit the Memphis design universe, venturing into fun and offbeat looks, for creative proposals that are always ready to inspire.
Solid, deeply rooted in life itself, our ancestral earth fosters respect and lovingly invites us to idealize it, rather than attack it.
For AW 21/22, rocky structures influence all sectors. Like a journey to the heart of the earth, this seething core of liquid metal is an inexhaustible source of creativity drawing mysterious, precious and sensory treasures from its depths.