Perspectives AW2122: Influential authentics

The season’s transversal highlights: the most creative and representative products from the exhibitors’ latest collections, selected by the Première Vision fashion team.


Fine know-hows are celebrated with equal parts sincerity and panache, and timeless luxury qualities are strengthened by their individual inherent virtues.

Essential products are perfected to attain irresistible handles and blended with state-of-the-art technical qualities; the personality of iconic materials is worked in an offbeat way for surprising visual approaches; and deceptive appearances totally upset our perceptions. Despite their familiar shapes and aspects, silhouettes are also given a new spin via their constructions and proportions – and above all a truly singular approach to how they’re worn, updated by fabrics’ particular drape. A winter full of both reassurance and surprise, where Shetlands are everywhere and impart a certain rusticity without any austerity. Often, ruggedness is purely visual – the handles of faux-raw woolens are actually softened, and thick, coarse-looking leathers are round, welcoming, or endowed with fleecy backs.

Exhibitors: Lanificio Faisa, Lanificio Subalpino, La Doma, Inducol, Fabrica Tessuti.

These playful pretenders mark the season, and familiar weaves such as Prince of Wales, diamond and diagonals – along with leathers in traditional grains – prove to be more than they seem, featuring quilted backs, invisible thermal properties, suppleness and novel behaviors, but above all eco-responsible qualities and high-performance features to face any weather elegantly and beautifully.

Exhibitors: Abraham Moon, Vilartex, Kanemasa Knitting, Gülle Tekstil, Paulo De Oliviera, Nanshan.

Essential weaves such as twills reflect a far-reaching quest for excellence, worked in cotton and wool as well as denim and knits.
Classic visuals are given a twist through fancy weaves or daring interpretations: leading the charge, herringbones are broken down and fragmented in jacquards, silkies and prints with an interrupted rhythm. They are re-colored, worked in micro-weaves or crisscrossed with ultra-fine checks. When the look is familiar, the material will have surprisingly softened handles and puffy, fluid or airy behaviors.
The ambiguity that cuts across this season is also found in the mix of uses made possible by these iconic qualities, now made as much of cotton as of wool. Cotton suitings with precise weaves are right for suits tailored to perfection, or, conversely, worked in more relaxed shapes, for garments boasting a virtuoso asymmetry, or strange extensions and protrusions.

Exhibitors: Albano Morgado, Gratacos, Marini Industrie, Filarte, Tissages Denis & Fils, Sakura Lace, FCN Textiles, Boutons Kocher, Piemme Boutons, ABM, Crépin-Petit, Lartigianabottoni, Julien Faure, Kipas Casual / Formal / Tailoring.

The ultimate decorative references, flowers and plants are drawn with clarity and simplicity this season, with an exceptional feeling of substance in lace, embroidery and accessory components, and iridescent folklore influences. Tapestry-style floral motifs are interpreted in a variety of textures and volumes, and in woolly versions, for warm and colorful embroideries and applications – a formal note of luxury amidst a constantly shifting nature.

Exhibitors: Albert Guégain Broderies, Brecotessile, Crisden, Maison Lévêque et Fils, Invoga, Gi.Ma., Visma.

Discover our decodings by product destination in our Decodings & Collections and get a detailed look at the entire season in the TrendTasting: The Season.

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