Perspectives AW2122: Caring protection

The season’s transversal highlights: the most creative and representative products from the exhibitors’ latest collections, selected by the Première Vision fashion team.

The season encourages friendly protection, smart and caring ways to shield the body without being the least bit aggressive.

With a deliberate kindness, it integrates technology right into the heart of developments, for volumes and materials that are both sensually irresistible and technically performant. Exceptionally soft handles, materials
and surfaces that are as soft as can be, shorn velvets, skillful brushings and fluffy, childlike leathers are all hallmarks of this autumn-winter season.

Eco-friendly performance features are protective, demonstrating their presence in fabrics, leathers and accessory components alike. Volumes are inflated with air for garments that welcome and envelop the body with a new tenderness and strength. Double-faces are protective, and doubled up with technical expertise for a surprising look and feel.

Materials and volumes are an open invitation to snuggle up in fullness and softness, in fluffy cocoons, and provide a protective and indulgent refuge. The highly desirable qualities of enveloping coats and jackets
are a delight to the hand, with mohair broadcloths, brushed checks, sables and fake furs, along with foamy, bouclette wools and flattened shearlings. Velvets retain their presence in jacket and pant weights for city tailored looks, and luxurious polar knits are freshly appealing. Nubucks with a quite short, sanded grain are generously oiled and nourished to wrap up in with a certain refinement.

Exhibitors: Sophie Hallette, Catland, Marmara Deri, Velcorex Since 1828, Inducol, Lanificio Faisa, Marini Industrie.

Deftly playing off contrasts, double faces baffle the senses. Faces and backs, each with a different look and feel, fool both the eye and the hand, and can even embrace performance. Double broadcloths in high mixes for elegant coats are broken down in incredibly imaginative ways, both in fabrics and leathers, where they are particularly velvety and silky. Splittable and bonded woolens have fun playing with colors, patterns and textures. In knits and
suitings, these elegant reversible fabrics strike a deep and surprising well of creativity.

Exhibitors: Albano Morgado, IN.TES.PRA, Pontoglio, Everest Textile, Kipas Casual / Formal / Shirting, Inducol, La Doma.

Airy is as airy does – and this season quiltings rise above the rest, taking a boldly innovative approach. Worked in the most contrasting materials, they are elegant, satiny, with refreshed designs and a new ultra-mobility. In  leathers, quilted triple layers are ultra-light and feature revisited decorations, pairing with textiles for unusual hybrid materials. Components puff up with pride, laces are rounded, straps and ribbons have exacerbated bulges, and labels are super plump.

Exhibitors: Leathertex, Cavalleri, Ezgi Tekstil, Satab Fashion, Hurel, Colomer, Texcart, Omnipel.

Looks say far from everything about a material. Beyond its esthetics, a product’s non-visible properties are becoming a selection criterion too. And just as their technical features protect us from cold and inclement weather,
invisible eco-responsible qualities also have to protect nature. Vegetable-tanned leathers that are free of heavy metals are developed with such expertise that their suppleness can match that of any conventional hide, and
their colors are exceptionally bright.

Exhibitors: JRC Reflex, Soieries Chambutaires, Hamzagil, Nanshan,Barutçu.

Materials, fabrics, leathers and components together sketch out the wardrobe of a protective future, caring in terms of both people and the environment, with an increasing offer of biodegradable and compostable materials in accessories, textiles and all sectors – a remarkable exploration of traceability and low impact finishings.

Discover our article about the inspiration that launched the season on the Première Vision website , as well as our decodings by product destination in our Decodings & Collections.

Discover a detailed look at the entire season in the Season TrendTasting.

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