Last February, the Première Vision Paris show confirmed the increasingly striking crosses between casualwear and citywear. After taking a keen interest in sports apparel, designers are now happily redefining the stylistic codes of tailored garments and shirts. Spring summer 21 sees a heightened froth of creativity in terms of shirts, which stand out this season primarily through the choice and quality of their materials.
Check out the Marketplace website to find the must-have styles and materials selected by the Première Vision teams, to inspire you in building your Spring-Summer 21 shirt collections.
The no-gender wave continues to win over designers, who are turning to tailored items and shirts as their principal fields of creative expression. For next spring-summer, women’s shirts borrow codes liberally from men’s wardrobes – to the point of becoming unisex. Volumes are never restrained, and flaunt both maxi and ultra-shortened versions.
In boxy versions with workwear details – topstitching, large patch pockets – shirts boast generous, full and pared-down volumes. And beneath the apparent simplicity and freshness of poplins and dobbies – worked in white, radiant ecrus, pastels, plains and stick-stripes – are hidden new features inspired by sports apparel. These new performance features – including water-proof or breathable technical properties, stretchy ease, ultra-lightness – anchor shirts firmly in our everyday mobile lives for a super appealing practicality.
Fabrics | Colour-woven| Verne et Cletl, France | Réf : 4478/38779_B – Co : Rayure Serge | 50%Coton 50%Polyester DIOLEN | See more
Fabrics | Casual| Albini Donna, Italy | Réf : F3102845-63 – Co : MUSSOLETTA WASHED BARRE | 100%CO | See more
Fabrics | Colour-woven | Kipaş Mensucat İşletmeleri A.Ş., Turkey | Réf : NI 9 4 0 402 5KL SS9012 06 – Co : NICE REPREVE | 70%ORG CO 30%REPREVEPES| See more
Fabrics | Colour-woven | Tessitura Monti S.p.A., Italy | Réf : YS8 – Co : BREZZA BIO | 100% ORGANIC COTTON| See more
On the margins of the no-gender influence, blouses are emerging in super sexy versions, for a woman who is no less assertive, and assumes her identity fully yet differently.
Here again, the preferred materials invite a play on volumes and details. Sleeves are puffy and waists are narrowed to the point of exaggeration. This season, English embroidery and eyelet laces in pale or muted colours, and with purified and hollowed-out motifs, modernize the farm spirit.
In a more evening but still sexy mood, a taffeta and organdy spirit hints at a transparency structured by marked folds and full cuts to exaggerate volumes. Spectacular tops sometimes feature prints with giant flowers. This very 90’s silhouette is given an offbeat look with belted boyfriend-jeans shorts and streamlined boots.
Fabrics | Lace | Sophie Hallette., France | Réf : 841770-L11-NY01C-135 – Co : 841770-L11-NY01C-135 | 100% PA| See more
Fabrics | Embroidery | EMBSENSE X WORKINGMENBLUES., China | Réf : ESW-293 – Co : Nil | 100%Cotton | See more
Fabrics | Silkies | IMAGO-ROLA, Italy | Réf : Melilla 56- Co : Melilla 56 | 52%VI48%SE | See more
Fabrics | Prints | LISA, Italy | Réf : WALSALL-CR_42744- Co : WALSALL-CR | 100%PL | See more
Fluid and sophisticated shirts
Items sometimes hover between tunics and dresses. When lengthened to the extreme, a blouse can be layered over flowing, extra-long trousers with slits at the side. A new fluid silhouette, embracing an elegant ease and comfort, which can be expressed on eco-responsible fabrics with a rustic look, enhanced by new finishings.
Sophisticated linens that have been softly washed and are sustainably traceable, eco-designed viscose with a round suppleness, Lyocell crepes, and blends of recycled polyester, cotton, linen or hemp were among the highlights at the last Paris show. This is one way elaborating eco-responsibility as a transversal theme that steers casual items towards greater sophistication. Here we can imagine safari shirts with redefined volumes, with a subtle ethnic touch or a deliciously vintage charm.
Fabrics | Casual | GÜLIPEK TEKSTIL, Turkey | Réf : G194879 – Co : CHAGO | 97%Ecoveroviscose 7%Pes | See more
Fabrics | Casual | MOZARTEX CO.,LTD, China | Réf : 17G109-FC – Co : Tencel Luxe| 100% LYOCELL LUXE | See more
Fabrics | Colour-woven | Sidogras SA, Spain | Réf : 6009/5 – Co : Tencel| 100%TENCEL | See more
Fabrics | Colour-woven | PASTEL BY YILMAZİPEK, Turkey | Réf : B52427-1-1 – Co : TINOSA 1A | 76% CV 24%CLY | See more
Fabrics | Plain | Lineaesse Group / LDS / Glare, Italy | Réf : GL51107 – Co : GL51107 | 83% VI 17% LI | See more
This season, fantasy comes into play in decorations too. There’s an almost irrepressible desire to express oneself, to get away, to escape the daily grind, and call on the full force of nature.
Prints are exuberant and spectacular, referencing nature with patterns that are simplified but have maximum visual impact, or are a jungle of colourful foliage. They stylishly bring to life pieces borrowed from the men’s wardrobe: a boxy top with a demurely fastened collar worn with a sarong skirt or a floaty shirt-tail spirit, worn wide open over a bra top and a cycling shorts.
Cuts are full and vaporous, fabrics are fluid and supple yet dense, including silk twills and new generation Cupros. Men’s pyjama inspirations are played out in mix and match prints offering up a new take on nonchalant, but highly elegant and sensual, casual wear.
Tops play on asymmetrically rolled up, cut-out and draped details and give a refresh to exotic prints. They lend a feminine look to Lyocell shorts, to be worn loose-fitting, with a high waist and puffy pocket details.
Fabrics | Prints,BEST S|S 21,WOMENSWEAR DECORATIONS | LIBERTY FABRICS, United Kingdom | Réf : BESTSS21_BELGRAVIA_SILK_SATIN – Co : BESTSS21_BELGRAVIA_SILK_SATIN | 100% SE | See more
Fabrics | Prints | DEVEAUX SAS, France | Réf : EPHEMERE /IMP-30565-GC05 (505197) – Co : EPHEMERE /IMP-30565-GC05 (505197) | 100%COTON | See more
Fabrics | Prints | ESTAMPARIA TEXTIL ADALBERTO PINTO DA SILVA, Portugal | Réf : A201151601 – Co : SARJA 2X1 | 100%LY | See more
The S/S 21 shirt isn’t much given to compromise, but plays skilfully with contrasts and emerges as a true highlight of the season. The shapes are pure, but they can be worked in either maxi or cropped lengths, easily juggling between a souped-up femininity and a genderless influence, while deftly merging casual and citywear codes.