GLOBAL EVENTS FOR FASHION PROFESSIONALS​

GLOBAL EVENTS FOR FASHION PROFESSIONALS​

Leather know-how: Technical glossary

An exploration of the sensual and versatile material that is leather, with a round-up of some of the technical terms and specific labels used in the profession. A precious tool for making your sourcing more efficient and better adapted to your needs.

 

 

Aniline 
This term is used for leather that has kept its original grain, and where the colour is applied all the way through the material via immersion, as opposed to leathers dyed only on the surface. Dipped is a similar term but applies only to lamb leather.

Box-calf
High quality chrome-tanned calf leather. A smooth and compact grain, made dense and firm by the tanning process.

cuir, aniline
Aniline, Raynaud

 

cuir, leather, box-calf
Box-calf, TMM

Crust
A term used in the tannery industry to designate an unfinished leather that has been rendered rot proof by being tanned then dried. This leather measured “by dry weight” can be conserved before the dyeing, re-tanning, fatting and finishing processes.

Vegetable Leather
Often used to describe a material produced from a plant. This is misleading as, by definition, such a product can neither be called nor considered as leather.

Grain/ Full Grain Leather
The grain is the structure of the dermis where the hair takes root. FULL GRAIN LEATHER has preserved its upper surface intact, leaving the wrinkles and natural grain of the skin visible. In contrast, a “CORRECTED GRAIN” refers to a leather whose grain has been transformed (nubuck, artificial grain).

cuir, pleine fleur
Full Grain, Tannerie Annal

cuir, pleine fleur
Full Grain, Megisserie Alric

 

Laminated Finish
This term applies to leather or split leather covered with a coating or a film. The thickness of the coating or film must not be more than one-third of the total thickness of the product but must be more than 0.15 mm.

Smoothed Finish
A mechanical finishing process performed using an agate stone which gives the leather a very flat surface and a compact, shiny grain.

Pigmented Finish
The name given to full-grain or split leather where the coloured finish is obtained by the use of pigments applied to the surface of the skin.

cuir, finition enduite
Laminated Finish, Dias Ruvio

cuir, finition lissée 
Smoothed Finish, Sofic

finition pigmentée, cuir, changeant
Pigmented Finish, Conceria Pelligrini Group

python, cuir, finition pigmentée
Pigmented Finish, Anaconda

Drumming
A mechanical process that involves tumbling the dry skin in a drum to soften it and accentuate the relief of the natural grain.

Mechanical Grain
A treatment applied to the leather using a press to give it a pattern in relief that reproduces the grain or the natural vein of a skin.

Nappa
Nappa is a full grain leather. A protective and lightly-pigmented finish is applied to the surface of the skin to give a soft, smooth and uniform result.

Nubuck 
Leather where the grain has been lightly buffed in order to give a suede finish.

Stretch
A quality that designates the elasticity of the skin, its predisposition to stretch and take on the desired form. The direction of stretch depends on the part of the skin being used (shoulder, side, butt).

Split Leather / Flesh Split
Flesh split is produced by splitting thick leather into two sheets, one containing the grain, called “leather” and the other made up of the flesh of the leather, called “flesh split”. The “suede” finish has a fibrous look. “Pigmented” or “laminated” hide is covered by a thick coating which gives it a smooth look.

cuir, grainé
Mechanical Grain, Faeda 

cuir, Nappa
Nappa, La Doma

cuir, nubuck
Nubuck, Sofic

croute de cuir, cuir
Split Leather/ Flesh Leather, Curtidos Bassols

cuir, croute de cuir
Split Leather/ Flesh Leather,
Tannact

Chrome Tanning
A tanning method using chrome sulphate (chromium III) to produce a leather that is soft, elastic and sturdy with good dyeing properties and UV resistance.

Metal Free Tanning
A tanning method that uses neither chrome nor other metals, including vegetable tanning and synthetic tanning.

Synthetic Tanning
Tanning method based on organic polymers. There is no official formulation for this type of tanning, as each tanner has their own recipes, sometimes patented and associated with specific environmental standards.

Vegetable Tanning
Tanning methods using tree bark, leaves, fruit or roots. One of the oldest methods of making leather. Gives an authentic, firm appearance with limited elasticity. Vegetable-tanned leather is sensitive to light and develops a patina over time.

cuir, tannage chrome
Chrome Tanning, Dani 

cuir, tannage synthétique
Synthetic Tanning, Inpelsa

tannage végétal, cuir
Vegetable Tanning, Alran

cuir, tannage végétal
Vegetable Tanning, Miret Cia

Suede
Leather or hide prepared in the opposite way, on the flesh side. Buffing produces the velvety texture typical of suede.

Wet blue 
Term used to designate an unfinished leather immediately after chrome tanning that is kept damp, and before it has been coloured, re-tanned, fatted and finished. The “blue” makes reference to the characteristic grey-blue colour of the leather after chrome tanning.

Wet white
Term used to designate leather immediately after vegetable or synthetic tanning and before it has been coloured, re-tanned, fatted and finished.

 


Suede, Alric

velours, cuir
Suede,
Inpelsa

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