As it often does when faced with a question, fashion finds the answer in creativity. A consumer searching for meaning is eager to understand fashion’s underlying realities: its development processes, production and distribution circuits, etc.
The consumer has become an actor in the buying process. He is focused on the Essential, driven by a deep desire to build a new and different world.
One direct expression of these rediscovered values was the trend at Première Vision Paris for positive reductions – a trend that impacts the design of products right on up through their purchase. A search for a more and more global ecoresponsability that drives materials and finishings.
Materials strive for quality above all, while decorations become lighter and less extravagant so as to convey their true nature, without ever tipping into the bland. Graphic proposals sidestep any false modesty or desire to blend in with the background, instead they have a strong visual impact and seek to stand out from the crowd without trickery.
For S/S 21, decorations head out into wide open spaces, expanding the field of possibilities. Hollowed-out and spaced-out, botanical patterns – one of the key motifs for S/S 21 – give full expression to white or pastel backgrounds, whether transparent or barely fancy-woven. Pared-down, airy and sparsely scattered florals are traced in transparency, blown through with a springtime breeze, lending substance to emptiness.
Flowers – stylised, flat-tinted and precisely drawn – stand out and look almost real on transparent or semi-opaque silkies, organza voiles, and even cut-yarn jacquards that are loosely open and worked in forthright, energetic colourways.
Fabrics | Casual | OLIMPIA TESSILE., Italy | Réf : SL.P.0011.S6 – Co : SL.P.0011.S6 | 56% PL 44% CO | See more
Fabrics | Silkies | IPEKER, Turkey | Réf : 00777 – Co : MONALISA | 74% VI 26% PA | See more
Fabrics | Silkies | BZ JAKARLI DOKUMA, Turkey | Réf : 50449-001/C_002 – Co : 50449-001/C_002 | 100% PES | See more
Echoing this positive-reduction trend, monochromes really step into their own. A sparing use of colours in no way side-lines creativity, on the contrary it highlights an attention to detail and materials, with a preference for natural materials. Extremely delicate embroideries worked on cotton and dévoré and tone-on-tone raised patterns both set aside visual complexity, embellishing emptiness by making it palpable. Whether immaculately white or elaborated in airy pastels, they inspire freshness.
Fabrics | Embroidery | EMBSENSE, China | Réf : ESW-310B – Co : ESW-310B| 100% CO | See more
Fabrics | Knits | ISIL TEKSTIL, Turkey| Réf : 140256 – Viscose Plated Jersey (Burnout) | %70 Viscose, % 30 Polyester | See more
Fabrics | Knits,BEST S|S 21| MEKKITESS, Italy | Réf : BESTSS21_ T4299Z01 – BESTSS21_ T4299Z01 | 87% CO 13% PA | See more
A fine line
The S/S 21 season shows an appetite for embroidery, especially flowers, and reflects the influence of craftsmanship on exhibitors’ collections.
Designed in relief and serving to fill in the void, generous flowers – whether refined or a touch naive, drawn in filigree, embroidered with coloured yarns – emerge on cottony handles or evanescent tulle. The fragile stem of an abstract flower in a monochrome yarn on evanescent tulle recalls the sophisticated simplicity of nature in full bloom.
Fabrics | Embroidery | FEDERICO ASPESI, Italy | Réf : FEDERICO_ASPESI_01 – FEDERICO_ASPESI_01 | Not specified | See more
Fabrics | Embroidery,BEST S|S 21,WOMENSWEAR DECORATIONS | EMBSENSE TEXTILE, China | Réf : BESTSS21_ESW-291 – BESTSS21_ESW-291 | 100% NY | See more
Fabrics | Embroidery,BEST S|S 21,WOMENSWEAR DECORATIONS | GOUTAREL, France| Réf : BESTSS21_GOUTAREL_01 – BESTSS21_GOUTAREL_01 | Not specified | See more
This season, fantasy is all about freshness and neatness. Piqués play a starring role as do tennis and stick stripes, which are regular and contrasting but also refined and spaced out. Transparency is everywhere this S/S 21 season, enhanced by subtle surface effects. Crepon, shivering materials and pleated surfaces, barely over-embroidered with neon-inflected florals, bring out the look of springtime simplicity.
Fabrics | Embroidery,BEST S|S 21 | ASPESI, Italy | Réf : BESTSS21_2A918_F – BESTSS21_2A918_F | 80% PL 20% CO| See more
Fabrics | Casual,BEST S|S 21,WOMENSWEAR TOPS & DRESSES | MERYDIEN MERLINE, Turkey | Réf : BESTSS21_J_1851 – BESTSS21_J_1851 | 66% CO 25% PA 3% EA 6% PES | See more
Decorations featuring empty space, a sparing use of colour and fanciful transparency mean that next season, floral designs celebrate simplicity – as if striving to go back to their roots and to what is Essential.