Fabrics AW2122 / Essentials: Jackets and pants

The season’s fabric highlights for the tailored and fluid markets: all silhouettes, whether sharply cut, relaxed, softly flowing or highly constructed. Key woolen, cottony, linen, and synthetic products for pants and jeans, women’s and men’s suits and jackets.

[one_half][/one_half][one_half_last]Elegant & casual
Universes continue to intersect, giving rise to subtly ambiguous developments in materials, helping us think outside the box. Tailoring fabrics grow lighter while authentic casuals develop their flirtatious side. Masculine-feminine codes bump up against each other, reinventing themselves. Suppleness gains sophistication and density for women’s apparel, while suitings are more fluid and fine. Iconic materials have a seductive and reassuring timelessness, without forgoing innovation thanks to updated compositions and patterns. Softness is expressed in visuals as well as in handles. Ultra-chic velvets grow more and more supple and soft. A flannel spirit is broken down in both wools and cottons, with delicately blurred surfaces for warm and well-fitted jackets and pants.[/one_half_last]

Updated iconics
The iconic weaves of the men’s universe are transposed into chic and relaxed versions. Mostly mid-sized, herringbones are infinitely re-interpreted. They are contrasting or monochrome, neat or blurry, and worked in wools or cottons in either pure versions or blended with synthetics and artificials. Prince of Wales patterns turn their backs on an overt classicism, embracing asymmetry and fancy weaves. Extremely clean denims, free of washouts and imbued with an authentic look thanks to their well-marked diagonals, are the perfect example of a stylistic evolution, striking just the right balance between a casual and tailored look.<iframe src=”″ width=”960″ height=”540″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe> Exhibitors: Abraham Moon, Linopersempre, Kumash Fabrics, Ozdoku Tekstil, Beppetex, Bezsan, Lanificio Subalpino, Zanieri Luigi, COM.IS.TRA-Linea Premiere-Linea Rijenius, Penteadora, Paulo De Oliveira, JCR Groupe, Kimteks Tekstil.

Melting softness
With its comforting handle and velvety appearance, flannel is fully in line with the genre crossovers that mark the next season. Wools are chiné, yarn-dyeds are blurry, and pure or blended cottons are brushed and emerized, pointing the way to hybrid products bridging citywear and casualwear. This alliance is subtly subdued in velvets, which this season embellish their inherent softness with lustrous ribs and smooth handles. Clean looks and creamy handles are right for loose-fitting pants that bring a citified elegance..<iframe src=”″ width=”960″ height=”540″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe> Exhibitors: Barutcu, Fox Brothers, Zanieri Luigi, Fabrica Tessuti, Iskur Denim, Tessitura Di Albizzate, Linopersempre, Sidogras, Velcorex Since 1828, Pontex, Destro, Olimpias Group-div. Progetto Uno, Olimpias Group Div. Tessuti Pordenone.

Cottony elegance
Cottons and cellulosic blends are not confined to casual wear, and now explore the chic universe. Qualities proudly vaunt smooth and regular surfaces with mercerized finishings and a particularly dense fineness for more structured uses. Inspired by classic suitings, fancy micro-weaves like bird’s-eye caviars are drawn with virtuoso precision. Free of any whiteness, perfectly plain denims with a supercharged indigo look in wovens have an impeccable appearance for pared-down shapes.<iframe src=”″ width=”960″ height=”540″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe> Exhibitors: Pontex, Beppetex, TMG Textiles, Velcorex Since 1828, Bezsan, Evlox Tavex, Kipas Casual/Formal/Tailoring, Tessitura Di Albizzate, Olimpias Group-div. Progetto Uno, Zanieri Luigi, Olimpias Group Div. Tessuti Pordenone, Yilmaz Kumascilik Tekstil, Larmatex.

Discreet luxury
Fine suiting wools take subtlety to new heights. The classic patterns of menswear – stripes, checks, Princes of Wales – are worked in miniature, barely perceptible versions, evoking plains. Extremely refined tailoring pieces are structured around fluid materials with a controlled luster, championing a luxury founded on discreet visuals and virtuoso know-hows.<iframe src=”″ width=”960″ height=”540″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe> Exhibitors: Bahariye, Filarte, Kivanç Tekstil, Ipekis, William Halstead, Kynoch 1788, E.Miroglio/Miroglio Lana, Fitecom, G Tex – Goldentex Wool, Nanshan, Albano Morgado, Olimpias Group Div. Tessuti Pordenone.

Full suppleness
Suitings in synthetics or viscose blends have full handles, at once round and malleable, and are often flexible too, for women’s suits and ensembles fusing comfort and elegance. The deliberate ambiguity between knits and wovens helps to elaborate more supple constructions, perfect for venturing into oversized, emphatically monochrome ensembles.<iframe src=”″ width=”960″ height=”540″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe> Exhibitors: Kumash Fabrics, Pakipek Group, Philea, Pakipek GroupErez Group, Lanificio Faisa, Nilba Tekstil, Kivanç Tekstil, E.Miroglio/Miroglio Lana.

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