The season’s highlights for eco-responsible developments and innovations for furs and leathers.
Eco-responibility and seasonality
This season, sustainability and reduced ecological impacts, both critical issues for tanners, focus on tracing products from their origin and optimizing sustainable production methods. Technical qualities and handles are being perfected in the various tanning processes, and finishes are reinvented to ensure a global, appealing and inspiring eco-responsible approach for the autumn winter 21-22 season.
By traceability*, we mean tracking the full history of the material throughout its production chain, from its origin to the monitoring of its transformation, all the way to the finished product.
Traceability combines several issues, that of animal welfare, i.e. ensuring that animal breeding and slaughter are conducted under decent conditions, improved quality and a respect for the eco-responsible criteria established by a company throughout its production chain. Without knowing the origin of the hides, it will be difficult to move forward. Traceability applies to all types of skins. The tanners disclose the origin of the raw material, to provide valuable information regarding the raw hides used, their characteristics and their added values. Knowing the origin of calf, lamb and shearling leathers is a major indicator of a product’s specificities and know-how. <iframe src=”https://player.vimeo.com/video/456166627″ width=”960″ height=”540″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe>Exhibitors: Pellican, Azais, Marmara Deri, Tannerie Remy Carriat, Sofic, Dani, Rial 1957, La Doma, Opera, Anaconda.
Vegetable-tanned leather is diversifying, attaining astonishing new aspects and handles, moving away from its initial image of natural beauty to an authentic roughness.
Tanneries are reworking their recipes, using new vegetable tanning agents, new concoctions, elaborating nourishing treatments to create softer, more tender handles on lamb, calf and even double-faced leathers. New and diverse thicknesses, colors and fantasies preserve the natural quality associated with vegetable tanning. A subtle balance is elaborated on matt carbon-reinforced grained goat-leathers with a citified note. Lamb, calf and lamb suede achieve a remarkable suppleness, and fine shiny lamb leathers with aniline finishes grow more sophisticated.<iframe src=”https://player.vimeo.com/video/456167710″ width=”960″ height=”540″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe>Exhibitors: Azais, Alran, Didier Lieutard, Marmara Deri, Raynaud, Rial 1957.
New metal-free developments are being rolled out, providing an innovative new take on essentials. Tannings based on synthetic tanning agents are perfected to meet technical requirements in terms of the strength and excellence of handles. The qualities of these new leathers express the season’s highlights, with soft, rounded skins, stretch leather qualities, and high-performant washable leathers. For leathers whose eco-responsibility extends through to the finished product, dyes and finishes also promote an eco-approach. Metal-free dyes have an incredible intensity and luminosity on these ideal bases. Translucency is the by-word in finishes. Water-based finishes and new developments based on plant bio-polymers, with their reduced environmental impact, are preferred. Waxy beeswax finishes give leather a lively, nuanced shine. Hand finishing, advanced two-tones and colored patinas give unique, exceptional value to each skin.<iframe src=”https://player.vimeo.com/video/456165823″ width=”960″ height=”540″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe>Exhibitors: Dani, La Doma, Ckd Cetinkaya, Dani, Rives 1862, Colomer 1792, Raynaud, Azais, Alran.