Spurred by a strong demand in the textile and leather markets for eco-friendly products, Première Vision’s exhibitors have focused their research on increasingly innovative products with low environmental impact, to respond to consumers eager to inject meaning into their purchasing decisions. And while these consumers want transparency in terms of a product’s origins, they aren’t ready to give up performance and esthetic appeal. This trend is influencing all market segments for AW 21/22, and the search for 360° sustainable approaches – starting from the design stage – is pushing all boundaries.
Check out the Marketplace for selected eco-friendly leathers, furs and textiles to build your jacket and coat collections for AW 21/22.
And read our special series of articles about seasonal highlights for eco-responsible developments and innovations.
Denim mills are more the ever turning to a global sustainable approach this season, and in doing so are showcasing more and more performance codes. Their efforts involve both the processes – waterless, reduced chemical impact – and fibers choices.
Organic cottons and recycled polyesters are favored. More or less firmly-set indigo plain wovens play on weaves and weights to offer personalized creative proposals. Deliberately raw, they nonetheless vaunt clean aspects and are saturated in indigo – fabrics just right for early fall jackets with a casual yet sophisticated look. Interpretations cultivate a certain dual ambiguity. Authentic, short and boxy jackets with sharp, impeccable cuts made from sturdy plain wovens are emerging alongside more elegant mid-season workwear jackets in suppler fabrics that ensure ease of movement through the use of recycled elastane, for example.
For more tailored cuts, eco-conception also means using fine and luxurious materials. Natural fibers such as cashmere and wool in either pure or 100% natural blends champion their traceability. Suitings in 100% fulled wools guarantee excellent hold in perfectly cut classic women’s suit jackets.
The use of recycled natural fibers is diversifying, and no longer limited to the customary cotton. Suitings in these woolens offer even more pertinent creative possibilities than traditional fibers. Herringbones, much appreciated this season, are worked in recycled wool-cotton blends, and can be used to create long coats, belted like a trench – a wonderful combination of comfort and timeless chic.
LEATHER AND FUR
Tanners’ efforts focus primarily on reducing ecological impact and improving the sustainability of their new developments. Skins are increasingly traceable, which provides the consumer a control over their provenance and on through their production methods. Nonetheless their esthetic appeal is not in any way lessened, and their look and feel continue to improve thanks to techniques perfected by each tanner.
New effects are now available, moving sharply away from the customary vegetal-tanned leather look with their quite uniform and deliberately natural colors.
Leathers with a crackled, time-altered look are very present this season, and can be worked in little jackets with vintage-looking leather in pigmented dark shades. For mid-winter garments, double-faced shearlings boast a host of eco-friendly advantages.
Furs, too, are traceable, developed without using heavy metals, and have a reduced chemical impact. They provide optimal protection against extreme cold by boosting their technical performance – especially washable and easy care properties. Oversized bombers, with really wide, spread collars, provide a warm and friendly protection to brave the harsh winter weather, snuggled inside big, reassuring cocoons.
SPORT & TECH
The Sport &Tech segment continues to innovate, ready to take on the challenge of reconciling performance, esthetics and eco-responsibility. Synthetic fibers are still preferred for their technical characteristics, but new developments are expanding the scope of eco-design. Bio-sourced polymers, a synthetic material produced using a minimum of 30% of renewable bio-sourced resources (sugar, corn, castor beans, etc.) are a good alternative to those derived from non-renewable fossil resources.
Blended with recycled polyester, these fibers ensure anti-bacterial, fast-dry or easy-care properties, making them perfect for little zippered outdoor jackets with stand-up collars, terrific for running outdoor errands. Wind-proof, water-repellent recycled polyamides feature lively surfaces, to construct parkas with a new fullness – in ripstops for optimal resistance, or decorated with the season’s prints for confident, cutting-edge street wear.
From casual, to city and sport & tech versions, come discover our full selection of key products to build AW 21/22 jacket and coat collections with a globally responsible approach.