Like menswear, autumn-winter 21-22 womenswear cultivates a dual ambiguity. The key objective is a reconciliation of formal looks and functional attire. And that’s no small task!
This represents an artistically exciting challenge for designers, who mark some interesting aesthetic shifts in their questioning of both gender and codes.
Here, a look at some articles from the Première Vision Magazine to help steer you through the Autumn-Winter 21-22 women’s collections.
Giving up on comfort seems inconceivable. We now take for granted an irrepressible need for protection and well-being, with a constant focus on softness and caring.
Casual looks evoke soft, cozy cocoons, an invitation to rediscover a delight in how fabrics feel. We can’t wait to curl up in the season’s big, enveloping blankets. Their fuller, even exaggerated volumes and frothy and delicate fabrics evoke comforting shelters – a bubble of well-being in this very particular season.
Another focus is the rebirth of more sophisticated fashions. This represents a major shift in next season’s womenswear ranges, putting the notion of seduction in a new light.
A desire to stand out, to liven up our everyday and look ahead with the help of some festive touches infuses each moment of our lives. A dress with super puffy sleeves or an entirely sequined top worn with sneakers in a bright pop of color is one way to shin – whether behind a computer screen or out at the club.
Fantasy is also reflected in prints and clothing surfaces, celebrating life and the beauty of time. Decorations are worked in XXL versions with plant references, like an ode to the power of nature, expressed through striking chromatic choices.
And then there are the long awaited parties! The joy of getting together, having fun and attract attention… Finally, a chance to pull out all the stops! A return to dressier wear, with a more ostentatious, even flamboyant, stylistic approach.
The look is all about outsized volumes. Too big, too short, too long… if it’s too much, it’s just right!
CUTS & PRINTS
Unsurprisingly, casual tops evoke childish plush toys, worked in downy, brushed knits and knit velour, giving a new look to sweaters that are at once luxurious and sporty.
Classic tartans play on pretence, with blurry lines and chinés to give a new look to shirts.
Decorations tip their hat to the tried and true: mini or maxi geometric prints come and go, playing on optical illusions. There’s an obvious nod to the power of nature, which has certainly stunned us during this ever-so-strange period of time.
An ultra-powerful, enchanting nature brimming with supernatural powers: hypnotic and mystical minerals, extravagant dreamlike plants in grating, almost synthetic colors contrasted with darkened backgrounds – ensuring an air of mystery!
In outer wear, fabrics are in the spotlight. Timeless tailored jackets in noble suiting fabrics put the accent on the material. In casual wear, a workwear influence continues, paired this season with raw, more refined denims.
Another focus for autumn winter is on the many faces of leather. Trench coats are worked in ultra-sensual dipped lamb leathers. And for the ultimate wow effect, designers make the most of light-weight double faces, with matt/shiny and light/dark contrasts. Anything goes!
Winter coats play on variations of fake and real furs. Choices range from a cozy plush feel to the roar of a brightly colored fleece.
For evenings out, looks double down on seductive appeal. Evening tops and dresses pay visible homage to a couture spirit, filtered by comfort. Satins and knit silks with a stretchy ease are elaborated in punchy, high-impact colors played for stunning effect, and opulent jacquards feature maximal decorations are all designed to dance till dawn.
In menswear and womenswear; red and its many variations give a powerful boost to next season’s silhouettes. Passionate and dramatic, red is flamboyantly worked in lace and satiny silkies. Powerful and energizing, red plays a catalyzing role in Sport & Tech silhouettes, neatly offsetting the ever-present pastels found in the wellbeing universe.
Leathergoods and footwear unfurl a vast palette of reds. Deep and uniform reds give a re-fresh to classics, while orange shades target the casual universe.
BAG & SHOES
Round or square, pared-down or opulent, the season’s accessories make the most of variable geometries.
The first theme is focused on iconic designs. Underpinning the whole is a special attention to materials and fine leathers with a compact solidity, where perfectly deep shades go hand in hand with clean, elegant, functional details. Ultra-streamlined bags and shoes suffice to impart a dramatic look to any of the season’s silhouettes.
At the other end of the spectrum are accessories with a flamboyant opulence. Here, it’s all about shiny leathers, punchy colors and precious details – buckles and chains – generously piled together.
A season marked by a delicious plurality – extravagant, sensual and comfortable!