Buyers’ choices for Spring Summer 21 point to menswear fashions that are more natural – more ecological, less techno, both authentic and fresh. The loosening divide between casualwear and citywear is confirmed by the choice of sophisticated fabrics for casual wear and the omnipresence of cottons and linens for tailored pieces. These two universes are seeing a similar quest for sustainable and easy everyday qualities, to give shape to a lighter, more versatile elegance.
You can find the these menswear fabrics, as revealed by the Best survey, at the Première Vision Marketplace to source online.
Tops & shirts
The brands most associated with traditional city elegance voted wholeheartedly for ultra-refined linen-y shirts. Vegetal fibres breathe new life into the classic blue and white patterns of city menswear.
Banker, stick and tennis are the winning trio! Especially when these colour-woven designs are given a fresh new look. The winning ingredients are many but precise: lighter qualities, more spaced-out designs, regular rhythms and neat colourways.
There’s nothing random about structures here. Choices go for neatly constructed plains and pattern bases. Basketweaves and piqué variations are gradually settling in at the expense of plain poplins or jersey.
While checks and especially stripes are preferred pared down, more distinctive fantasies emerge in printed versions. From exoticism worked in miniature to small-scale geometry and floral precision, the graphics selected are simpler, while originality remains a priority.
Discreet Prince of Wales
Not a lot of excess but lots of subtlety mark the fanciful choices. Say goodbye to contrasting tartans and hello to finer Prince of Wales patterns, worked in refined colour schemes. Making the difference here are colour blends in half-tones, imitation tone-on-tones that shift patterns towards semi-plains.
Linen blends post their best score in over 10 summers in suitings and for makers of casual cottons. With more than 18% of requests, this is the most sought-after composition this season. Naturally chic fabrics, with aspects enhanced by irregularities and fresh handles, draw in buyers.
Materiality – an underlying trend observed for the last 4 seasons – is increasingly synonymous with quality. And this season, its expressions are evolved and diversified. The search for compact materials is moving away from rawness, tending more to dense and fine cotton fabrics, stable knits to work like wovens, and a certain roundness in suitings.
Menswear indulges in a touch of preciousness. Mercerised jacket and pant weight cottons overtake washed or washed-out finishings. Calendered wools continue to progress, as they did last season, after a four-year reign of mattness. Choices made by men’s buyers prove that shine is no longer exclusively for women’s apparel.