The Best survey, which canvassed 339 Fabric and Designs exhibitors at the Première Vision Paris show in February 2020, identifies the major colour, fabric and decoration trends for spring-summer 21. The choices made by international fashion brands have been analysed and decoded to identify the certitudes and intuitions of designers and buyers.
Discover the Best Colors here, as well as the specific strengths of the womenswear, for the menswearand the sport and tech markets.
Go to the Première Vision Marketplace to source online the selection, as revealed by the Spring Summer 21 Best survey.
The shift begun last winter is confirmed without any doubt in the Best surveys: fashion brands are moving towards more eco-friendly fashion. In all universes and across all markets, the numbers speak for themselves, and the appetite for more sustainable and environmentally friendly developments is only growing. This priority value for sports and outdoor players is increasingly connected to high-tech solutions. For men’s and women’s, eco-products now vaunt a new chic, originality and fantasy. Beyond the success of recycled or organic materials, traceability is also becoming a critical factor. The emergence of recyclable and biodegradable products suggests that this interest is gradually being transformed into a more comprehensive approach. One notable point concerning the evolution of this new industry reality: the divide between a call for less polluting materials and the quest for quality, personalisation and innovation is coming down.
Source the eco-responsible materials selected following the survey of the best spring-summer 21, online on the Première Vision Marketplace.
A fabric’s quality must be detectable to the touch. Regardless of weight, a feeling of substance is sought. Fineness is preferred compact, fluidity has more drape, and even delicate fabrics need to reflect a certain solidity. Airy silks are preferred palpable, and enhanced with an organza-like roundness. Summery suitings captivate when enhanced with a firmed-up lightness, like combed mohair. Papery handles are prominent, with technical featherweights mostly preferred crispy. Supple cottons and cupro or lyocell blends are liked as dense as possible. The overall consensus for fabrics with an inner sophistication points to fashions whose appeal transcends mere appearance.
Buyers’ choices for fantasy products convey a visual impact free of artifice. They’re looking for patterns that are clearly showcased, but not overdone. This meant success for stylised motifs, clearly distinguishable from fabric grounds; and flowers and geometries worked in flat tints and precise lines. Stripes are no exception to this call for graphic simplification, with preferences going to quite regular stick and tennis stripes, often spaced-out and finer. Designers’ preferred colourways confirm this trend, and tend to pigmented intensities without a blend of showy multi-colour. In the survey, this resulted in two options: an enthusiasm for multi-tonal and tone-on-tone colour schemes, and more choices for decorations marked by sharp contrast and a sparing use of colour.
In this season’s requests, plains are on the rise. Choices do away with complexity without endorsing uniformity. Leading the way are surfaces enlivened with subtle irregularities, and shivering raised effects. New takes on shantung and fine silky slubs charm the women’s universe, while, in menswear, the naturalness of linen infuses most choices. Suitings feature plant fibres, and city shirtings are given a new life by maximally refined linens. In the same vein, choices for casual cottons for men’s and women’s collections reflect two main themes: blends including hemp or linen that display their authenticity discreetly; and, for pants and tops, light creponnings, slightly wrinkled and un-ironed aspects that regain a leading place in the figures.
In terms of aspects, a shift is taking place. Shine, which the latest surveys had revealed to be strongly on the rise for womenswear, is being redefined and gaining a more transversal appeal. There’s nothing extravagant in the use of reflections this season, and gleam is preferred low key – in silks and knits. In suitings, lustre is a mark of luxury. Chintzes are beginning to stand out, though still somewhat tentatively, on all base fabrics. Specialists in technical fabrics note that, while mattness is still more popular, the shines buyers are going for are increasingly sophisticated, and evoke silky fabrics. Meantime, in a significant development, cotton is no longer synonymous with mattness. The demand for mercerised qualities is growing in both knits and wovens. And most importantly, these requests involve the entire silhouette, from tops to trench coats, dresses and pants.