Opening of the spring-summer season 2021

“We are living in a unique moment in fashion history.”

Always in the forefront, fashion expresses in its own way the major trends coursing through our society. Above all, fashion today reflects a deep desire to build a different world – one that’s ethical, responsible and focused on the essential.

“As reflected in the new Première Vision Paris campaign, Spring-Summer 21 expresses the desire to open up new perspectives, broaden the scope of possibilities and, above all, take action. We are stepping into a very substantial season, driven by a hunger for intelligent, sensitive products in line with the new demands of a fast-changing society. And this is an extraordinary moment! Thanks to their ecological concerns, the general public is more than ever interested in the work we do in the upstream side of fashion. People are finally asking themselves where, how and by whom the tee-shirt they are wearing was made. Asking how many people were involved in its manufacture. The purchasing impulse is still there, but the consumer is now seeking a rational approach. The consumer is entering into the reality of the offer, is interested in the processes that go into fashion – the raw materials, the production and distribution channels of clothing. Their questioning goes beyond merely seeking to understand the market, it speaks to a desire for connections, history and  values. And it proves a fundamental conviction: with new ideas, it is possible to produce cleanly – in a way that respects our planet and even does it good. Today, there are beauty activists in the fashion industry and Première Vision wants, more than ever, to be the vector of these new ideas, thanks to the network and unique industrial fabric constituted by its exhibitors. And this creative energy is already evolving into fashion proposals with the emergence – for spring-summer 21 – of four major trends. A perfect expression of this moment of disruption and transformation.

Movement
It’s a time of uncertainty and the desire for change is reflected in an aesthetic exploration of movement: the fleeting shines of sanded, waxed and glazed materials; the play of light that makes colours vibrate with moirés, gleams and wavy fabrics.

Materiality
Spring-summer 21 favours transparencies that are both light and dense, focusing on layering and a renewed desire for zero weights for feather-light garments. Volumes are more structured and rounder. It’s an ode to generous pleats and suppleness – knits, leather, new viscoses produced in a reasoned and responsible way. This suppleness also applies to accessories, with rounded edges, softened corners, and to decorations as well, with a profusion of imposing motifs, especially florals.

Tactility
The only rule is: no uniformity! Digital developers go for truly amazing designs, rising to the challenge of offering inspirations as fresh and fun as video games. 3D elaborations influence designs, seeking to showcase singularity, and enhancing materials with raw aspects: a grain to fabrics and leathers, neps and multilayers. We turn away from smoothness in favour of an ultra-sophisticated, brutalistic spirit.

Positive reduction
 A spirit of economy is transforming not only how we consume but how we design too. The aim is to reduce superfluity in the production chain to create a unique, easily traceable and clearly distinguishing object. Patterns are pared of useless flourishes and extravagance. Products are growing more realistic, more authentic. We put a greater emphasis on the essential: quality, beautiful and sustainable materials. We seek to be less complex, more clearly readable, more true. Because today, we definitely can’t deceive. 

Next post A freeze frame of summer 21 with Cody Cobb

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