Opening AW 20/21 : Leather

Human, chimeric or reptile skins, metals and minerals inspire leathers that are anything but smooth

Overrun with fine lines, lightly bumped with a soft grain, as finely wrinkled as an eyelid, supple, fine, stretchy, sometimes looking altered by time, autumn winter 2021 leathers play on their lively surface attributes and sensitive handles. Protuberances and shrinkings heighten its animated, expressive look.

While skin tones, worked in tone-on-tone, in skin on skin, suit leathers perfectly, they also come in a lightly metallised guise to highlight their irregularities, or display contrasting colours posited almost like a blush in the marks of folds and ridges that seem branded by irons.

Leather borrows from metal its hammered, embossed and stamped effects. From the ancestral techniques of ceramics, which have been alternately subjected to heat and cold, it borrows crackles enhanced by glazes. From rocks, it borrows coarse-grained, sandy looks, achieved through buffing.

 

While the most unusual volumes feature a bubbled, air-filled look, there are also leathers with classic, chic, readable and round grains, with pronounced caviar-like textures, or with squared designs and lizard grains. Embossings grow geometric for offbeat evocations of modern reptile skins, or are ornamental and rounded in a loose reference to Córdoba leather.

Contradiction and surprise guide the relationship between the look and feel of these leathers. The volume perceived by the eye contrasts with a very light touch. A wrinkled, animated leather garment can be worn almost imperceptibly this season, thanks to its ultra-refined weight and feather-light feel.

On the fur side, partially cut hairs, carved in a very even or deceptively random way, create fluid, undulating motions, and invent strange rhythms in the coats and manes of imaginary animals and wonderful hybrid beasts. A season where the designated leathers, furs and textiles articulate new products evoking powerful sensations.

Discover the season in its totality at Première Vision Paris this 17th-19th septembre, as well as the decyphering of the season during our fashion TrendTasting seminars.

Previous post The AW 20/21 Première Vision Colour Range

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