Autumn winter 2019-2020 brings a creative revolution in eco-responsible materials, which now rival traditional materials thanks to fashion proposals continually focused on optimal quality.
Eco-responsibility is no longer a side topic, but rather a fully integrated value in the creative process. From biodegradable fabrics to eco-designed leathers, high-performance materials made from recycling scrap, and sustainable finishing techniques, this season’s Smart Creation offer puts innovation squarely within the realm of contemporary and creative fashion.
Fibres and materials:
The major innovation this season is in the field of biopolymers.
These shiny yarns and fabrics are made from renewable natural resources such as corn starch or castor oil. They give rise to eco-designed polyamides, perfect for sports, lingerie and silkies.
In terms of accessories, bio-polymers are found in translucent buckles and buttons made of bagasse.
Organic products are both more fanciful and finer, with, for example, an increased offer of organic silks and the emergence of rainbow astro-dye cotton yarn. At the same time, organic wool also has a stronger presence in the offer, mainly in non-dyed versions, combining sustainability and animal welfare with ‘mulesing-free’ certifications.
The offer of recycled products is expanding with ever higher-quality products, for example a new generation acetate created from recycled sources and produced in a closed circuit. There is also the arrival of recycled elastane, which takes another step forward by earning the Cradle to Cradle certification, dedicated to the circular economy. Synthetics continue their rise in this field, particularly polyamides, by incorporating protective qualities such as high-strength on ultra-light products.
Controlled productions are also gaining ground, with more and more viscose and derivatives coming from sustainably managed forests (FSC).
In fabrics – whether prints, jacquards, woven-dyed shirtings or woollens, wool or techno coats, from the strictest tailoring to the most relaxed casual pants and denims, from the most body-hugging to the most wildly extravagant silkies and knits, the Première Vision Fabrics offer broadly extends its eco-friendly vocabulary to all silhouettes and styles. It is driven by fabric developments, as well as PFC-free waterproof finishes and high performance thermals from the world of active sport. Products are assembled in extremely fine and light tri-layers, and make no concession in terms of a cutting-edge look.
Leather companies are extremely active in this area, and animal welfare is an essential topic for winter 19-20. RFID-chip traceability technologies are part of the best practices gradually being adopted by growing numbers of industry players.
The metal-free offer continues to expand, and is becoming more sophisticated with ever more supple leathers. A growing number of products are currently developed without the use of metals or aldehydes, and these tanning methods can be used even for exotic skins.