The season’s Essentials fall in sync with the move towards a more constructed look in denser fabrics. Even when supple, fabrics are more consistent and lend themselves to tailored constructions. Designs are increasingly integrating environmental concerns.
Suits and jackets
Fabrics made for constructed volumes that are not stiff. The comeback of chic. Well-balanced weights, dynamic even fluid behaviours, controlled gleam. The frontiers between masculine and feminine continue to evaporate.
Updated sheen: A slightly hi-tech gloss, dynamic behaviours. Smoothed surfaces and soft calenderings skim across fabrics without crushing fibres.
Fine and dense cottons, perfectly smooth gabardine.
Intense fineness: Shetland wools and flannels are refined to reinforce their softness. The visual DNA of these authentic fabrics is evolving towards refined colourings, blurry checks and delicate chinés. Beautiful brushed wools are assembled in ultra-fine double faces to achieve light and insulating jacket weights
Rough wools: Surprising handles, an impression of solidity without too much weight, a dry and modern rough aspect, far from authentic wools. Simple, almost ordinary weave structures.
Firm weaves with surprising handles and behaviours.
Extra-chic diagonals: Finely-incised serges and cavalry twills, flawless cotton twills. A perfect balance between structure and suppleness for a controlled fullness, with new pant volumes in viscose and Lyocell blends.
Casual/Cotton and Denim
Velvety sharpness and dense suppleness define casual pieces with an attitude and generous volumes. Traceable man-made fibres serve as eco-friendly partners.
Soft substance: A stretchy and subtly weighty fluidity with a decidedly casual identity.
Cotton and lyocell or viscose blends with more substance and a more supple feel, super-suave denim thicknesses. Meticulously-emerised smooth and warm surfaces, tamed moleskins. Robust cottons with flannel visuals. Brushed chinés, jaspés and throwns, and slipper-style checks in softer hues in wool/cotton blends.
Velvet appeal: Deceptively heavy, quite malleable and stretchy, corduroys play on a shift between their look and feel. Boldly gleaming silkies, distorted, washed, softened and irregularly dyed. Real indigo velvets and flocked fabrics. In knits, upholstery-style corduroys, plush textures.
Indigo jacquards: Fancy figureds for unusual denims. Controlled rips, designed in cut-yarn jacquard motifs, tapestries and ornamentals with a shabby blue look.
A highly tactile coat, a round and lush shelter to comfortably wrap oneself up in. Motifs that are present – but not too overtly – a few touches of radiance, outdoorsy patterns that express themselves quietly but with confidence.
Comfortable density: The supple consistency of pressed wools and felts. Felted knits, supple and structured, in wool or techy-looking synthetic blends.
Fleecy woollens: Double faces with nubby surfaces, coloured backs, expanded boiled textures, wool, alpaca or cashmere velours with a polar fleece look. Curly and loopy fake furs.
Wild hairies: Sumptuous wools and alpaca velours evoking sable, puffy candy floss-like mohairs, wool fleeces brushed to filter patterns, crazy yarns inserted into tweeds or yarn-dyeds. Unnatural-looking fake furs that are sculpted, graphic or sprinkled with metal nuggets.
Sweatshirt-style: Substantial, luxurious woollens with knit behaviours. Softened double-face
broadcloths evoking cotton fleeces. Reinvented classic patterns, super-stolid houndstooths and Prince of Wales.
Dresses and pants
Silks meet woollens to create a more matt fluidity with enhanced substance, for women’s wardrobe staples like dresses, pants and jumpsuits.
Sensorial fluidity: Ultra-matt and richly-coloured crepes, textures with visible and tactile grains, crepe piqués. Fine but sensitive textures that are less smooth and runny. Agitated surfaces, laminated crepons, disorderly shivers and moving bark textures. Stretch crepe knits in a sporty silk spirit.
Confident glow: Coloured lamé reflections, coppery metalloplastics, dark iridescence, fascinating shifting-colour butterfly-wing effects. Metallo-plastic knits with many-hued sparkles, light-covered surfaces, disco-scented bits of glitter.
Mineral-looking jewelled tweeds, dark rustic wools scattered with a mica shine.
Tops/Shirts and Knits
This season the shirt gives an elegant refresh to sportswear. Predominantly dark, with warm handles, and patterns more rural than urban.
Masculine fluidity: Viscose blends, light and suppler qualities.. Neutral colourways and patterns, classic stripes that are now loosened-up.
Casual-chic velvets: Finely brushed surfaces, flannel-style blurry chinés, almost invisible baby cords, stripes and checks set off with chenille yarns.
Greyish shades: Muted XXL gingham checks, windowpane and other checks spun off from woollens in casual colourways, slipper-style tartans. Figurative or geometric damask chambrays. In prints, soft florals and faded undergrowth patterns.
The sustainable offer is now firmly in place across all variety of knitted products. A season of extremes, with fine densities to structure, and generous expansions to surround and envelop.
Highly-drawn structures: Enlarged piqués, wicker textures and small checks for little sweaters. Fine and flat ribs in cotton or wool for T-shirt weights.
Wovens-style: Dense and constructed fineness, reduced elasticity, noble wools and cottons, or elaborated synthetic blends. Woven-inspired diagonals for knit shirts and jackets.
Ultra-expanded: fleece with large loops or generously-brushed backs, extra-puffy polar fleeces, cosy fluffy and grainy textures.