Autumn-winter 2019-20 sees the start of a reversal: elegance falls from first place to third, as more casual and authentic men’s fashions now take priority. Also new is the fact that sustainable development has risen to fourth place in the key values, on par with the search for fantasy. Is an eco-responsible and nonchalant dandy the new male icon? Men dressing for the city enrich their repertoire by embracing a functional spirit, underpinning their taste for the rational.
JACKETS AND COATS
Buyers commit to both fantasy and authenticity by choosing double-windowpane checks or enlarged and recoloured tartans. Colour-woven checks, in wool, often brushed and sometimes double-faced.
Carded woollens are a sensation thanks to their subtler colours and handles. Buyers like herringbones enlivened with knopped yarns. A relaxed, washed Shetland spirit is successful. Multi-coloured throwns are preferred in softer colourways.
For structured trenches, parkas and coats, choices go to dense fabrics, felted wools compressed to the max, chic and functional bondings, assemblies of technical synthetics and woollen checks.
SUITS AND PANTS
A taste for the fundamentals comes through in the selections of woollen fabrics: dry suitings even for winter, and fine and firm wools for cuts with notable hold. Suits and pants are preferred in stronger versions: sturdy woollens, bonded or membraned, waterproof or water-resistant suitings.
Relaxed, washed, suppler wools, mixed with linen or cotton, are liked for their natural warmth. Buyers’ heads were turned by slightly irregular, dented, lively surfaces. Forthright choices for poorly-ironed aspects herald the arrival of suitings advocating a less formal look.
Fantasy continues to infiltrate the men’s universe. Buyers are tempted by suitings enlivened by mini jacquards. They choose wools with silky accents for suitings. Some even go for a total checked look, with linear patterns in both jackets and pants.
In the men’s sector, there’s a play on shirt/tie similarities. Geometric prints accelerate their growth, matt-shiny figureds are selected for their silky connotation, while paisley motifs are in third place among the most requested fancies, right after fancy-woven stripes and tartans.
Tartans step right into the city: on the edge of formal and relaxed looks, patterns traditionally associated with casualwear and streetwear are given a new spin through subtler colourways and finer weaves. Men’s fashions opt for hybrid, contemporary and slightly offhand citywear.
A stronger interest emerges for shirting qualities with invisible added values.
Finer and denser cottons are requested. Everything that can make shirtings more maintenance free – easy care, no-iron and sometimes even stain-resistance – are in demand.