This season, flowers yield centre stage to oriental ornamentals and reworked animal skins. Multi-coloured decorations enliven autumn winter, and patterns stand out for their XXL scales. Classic motifs are preferred broadly updated by complex graphics and newly elaborated and colourful palettes.
Highly creative checks – the season’s big winners – spark a host of emulation: recoloured, enlarged, offbeat, dual, misaligned, blurred, diluted, interrupted, irregular, double-faced … in short, never just plain! They are liked just as much woven as embroidered or printed.
The animal skins selected are very freely altered, given an offbeat look through their use of surprising grounds, delicate lace, precious jacquards and technical coatings. Particularly capturing attention were animal motifs interacting with elaborated grounds, or combined with vibrant textures, cut-yarns or openworking.
Recoloured, highly dense palmettos and paisleys captivate through their opulence, especially in prints, as well as in guipure and lace and jacquard silkies. Compositions are preferred graphic, framed like scarf patterns, or in contrasting combinations of motifs: assembled stripes, geometrics, paisleys.
Prints imitating graphic weaves, bold diagonals and large herringbone patterns are all the rage. In terms of technical fabrics and jacquard silkies, new takes on traditional suit and tie patterns met with success, as did shepherd’s checks and hounds-tooths in updated colourways.
The flowers preferred for the autumn winter 2019-20 season are stylised, almost abstract, and highly graphic. There’s a focus on the density of printed or woven flat tints, on full laces, and on large petals enlivened by texture.
Textile designers have whisked buyers off to their own imaginary countries. An obvious attraction for figurative motifs unfolds: landscapes and forests inhabited by strange animals, felines and birds.