A season where materials should be seen from 180°, where quality, synonym of innovation and research, does not mean one cannot have fun. The materials of the season are an invitation to sensual immersion and opt for materiality, or are more suggestive and dreamier, evoking lightness and evanescence and opt for immateriality.
On the Materiality side
We find a raw expression here that reveals dehydrated, crazed appearances, scarified surfaces, deep and irregular laser cut-outs, unexpected articulations. And also, ashy, turbulent surfaces on calf, vachetta, crust and buffalo. New textures make their appearance with unbuffed goat leathers and cracked, almost rough, surfaces. Or the exact opposite with impeccable tanning and smooth surfaces that give a glimpse of imperfections enhanced by the quality of the materials: perfect calf leather, thinned young bull.
A qualitative materiality which is expressed by the pleasure of using materials that are full but never overladen. An earthy colour palette with calm browns, new, more urban khakis, bleached or greyed beiges, punctuated with vibrant oranges and muted purples. In another expression of this materiality, we find geometric grains and graphic designs, often inspired by textiles. This essential expression uses a palette of energetic and elaborate pseudo-primary colours, where reds dominate and combine with deep pinks and intense blues.
On the Immateriality side
Effects of light, shine and lustre are renewed. Subtle pearl, a hint of marbling, iridescent crumpled silver leaf, folded, perforated origami. Gold goes white, it is barely visible, often matt, and sometimes lightened to a pale yellow. Changing colours are less present and their effects are milder.
Lightness, the partner of this evanescence, is omnipresent. Stretch lambs are feather light, skins are open-worked, perforated with tiny and irregular grooves. A new powdery and lively matt appearance is far removed from the rather technical, rubbery textures seen in previous seasons.
This agile and functional lightness is put to good use to create stretch lamb leathers that are more inventive than ever. Colours are expressed by a desire for immaculate whiteness, or are given a light-yellow hue, a pink halo, a moving and seductive fragility.