The choice of fabrics for spring summer 17 for the womenswear market signals
a balance between evanescence and materiality,
enriched with intersections between sophisticated naturalness,
fresh and bold fantasy and a touch of technicality.
These selections offer up new alliances:
more macro-yarn weaves that are lighter-weight, larger decorations on more vibrant supports, and more subtle irregularities with a refined hand.
TOPS AND DRESSES
Fabrics dedicated to small pieces and fluid dresses are fresh and light. A touch of romanticism inspires the selections and signals a dynamic, elegant style that connects the world of sports and lingerie for highly feminine every day wear.
A predominance of refined crêpes, crêpe-like silks and lightly crinkled finishes in silk/cotton and viscose/cotton blends or 100% natural compositions. An affinity for shivering knits, falsely crumpled jerseys and mini-cloqués.
The only unanimously popular shine was crystalline: powdery gold reflections and silvery sheens. Iridescent silks, pearly or discreetly shiny knits, embroidery with transparent plastic shine and luminous metallic lace.
Buyers loved airy or floaty fabrics such as fantasy chiffons and figured gauze, sports mesh and openwork, and extra-fine lace in vivid colours. Burnt-out spring flowers, cut yarn jacquard with cotton accents, and graphic knits with opaque/transparent stripes.
There was an increase in requests for light and extensible knits and weaves: cupro and viscose mixed with elastane, silky/technical blends, dense and fine lightweight stretch jerseys. A desire for second skin materials.
JACKETS AND ENSEMBLES
For outer and over pieces, buyers opted for fabrics with sophisticated tactile characteristics. They praised weaves with a natural aspect and extremely refined feel, such as soft, smooth raffia, dense and dry linens and fine-grained textured crêpes.
For jackets or dresses that are simultaneously structured and energetic, choices were concentrated on linen/viscose blends and crêpes. After three seasons of constant growth, crêpes are considerably changing. While still appreciated for their spring and suppleness, for spring summer 17, they are distinctive for their regular grain, their profound matte finish and a hybrid identity that falls between silk and cotton.
Amid an increased desire for intensely natural materials, what stands out is the vegetal character of yarns, which are amplified and magnified by open weaves. Increased interest in jacket-weight fine and elongated slub cotton, richly textured monochrome cotton tweeds, thread-like weaves and falsely rustic raffia.
Relief makes all the difference, with increased interest in jacket weight seersuckers, cloqué jacquards, quilted summer knits, textured stripes in contrasting thickness or structure, or solids in undulating threads and rounded weaves.
For little and top pieces alike, whether for day or evening wear, the designs chosen are more readable. In prints as well as embroidery and jacquard, the lines are cleaner, there is more contrast in colours and above all the dimensions are changing. Less demand for small and micro-motifs; medium and very large-scale motifs are the most popular.
Clean and fresh stripes, mostly horizontal top the list of selections. This desire for boldness is evident in the choice of simply geometric embroidery, and clean, oversized polka dots or diamond shapes. Decorations with an ethnic influence are also buoyed by this trend, with requests for abstract tribal prints and pared down graphics with primitive accents.
A wave of slightly bucolic vitality led the selections of decorations toward bouquets and herb gardens with spontaneous designs, such as flower seedlings that were quickly sketched out, painted, or drawn in ink or marker. A romantic freshness can be found even in dressier clothing: laces and embroideries create spring-like collages; bucolic motifs are enriched with floral over-prints and petal applications.