Lighter-weight jackets, more substantial trousers, a more chic suit,
a shirt that’s at once sophisticated and casual.
Checks gain ground in suiting and fresh stripes are in demand for shirting:
the spring summer 17 gentleman wants to free himself of conventions with elegance.
In the quest for a knowing balance between a strict and a relaxed look,
the linen influence and lightweight materials play a major role.
The ambivalence between elegant and casual remains at the center of desires for shirting. While still present, the casual influence is evolving quickly. The sophistication of fabrics and the subtleness of fantasies bolster the character of city shirts.
Among the very top most sought-after fabrics are cotton/linen blends and 100% linens. This desire for vegetal feel is confirmed by the success of pure cottons with slubs. It’s worth noting that their irregularities are appreciated so long as they are not rustic.
Buyers who were more focused on formal fashion were drawn to very light characteristics. Chic shirting for men was demanded airy yet not transparent, without obvious openwork; what’s most appreciated is their fineness.
Chosen mainly for city shirts, mini-figureds, dobbies and discreet jacquards are often associated with subtle yarn dyed effects. Weaves with figurative designs, such as animals, flowers and small abstract patterns have overtaken plaids – the most-requested motifs for several seasons.
In yarn-dyed fabrics, there is equal demand for two-tone and multicoloured designs: what’s important is a tonic contrast of colour that ranges from clarity to vivacity. Design dimensions also hew to increased readability, with medium scale trumping small scale for both plaids and stripes. The statistics are tied this season: stripes are up while plaids are losing ground.
JACKETS AND SUITS
Suiting moves away from the casual influence that had relaxed the masculine silhouette these past few seasons. While steering clear of formal wear’s rigid codes, menswear buyers opted for materials that let them re-style jackets, suits and trousers with elegance.
The hidden qualities of fabrics make all the difference when it comes to lightness and technicality. Menswear buyers preferred airy and fresh woolens or chic, extra-fine synthetic blends. These fluid fabrics herald lighter suiting with dynamic ease.
A touch of rusticity with lively visuals and refined hand makes for a seductive alchemy.
This desire favors linen blends, slubbed yarns and vegetal suiting. There’s a pronounced taste for a dry linen touch for men, with the lion’s share going to dry crêpes that, until now, were reserved to the women’s market.
Men’s fashion is opening up to fantasy – no doubt about it! The solids that were chosen are not completely solids: they have micro-reliefs, seersucker or jacquard effects. Discreetly figured suiting continues to make headway, mainly for jackets.
Visible differentiation is what high-end designers are after. Fantasy takes the upper hand, plaids and stripes become noticeably more visible, larger and more contrasted. The colour choice for city men is more daring.