Genderless is the key idea for relaxed fashions that have close ties to the world of elegance
yet blue the line between masculine and feminine.
Men no longer shy away from silky-like fabrics and
share with womenswear a certain fluidity and shine.
The casual silhouette is fresh thanks to lighter-weight fabrics
and the lightening of subtly washed-out finishes.
TOPS & SHIRTS
Buyers opted for little relaxed pieces that struck a balance between authentically natural fabrics, more refined hands and charmingly simple visuals. These preferences herald more fanciful tee-shirts, sweatshirts and shirts that are simultaneously casual and light.
The denim shirt is a key piece of the men’s wardrobe and this season extends to the relaxed women’s wardrobe. Buyers moved away from light classic denims in favor of fantasy weaves, dobbies, stripes and figureds. Washes are most popular in gradations of ever-fresher blue.
The authentic touch of the season is undeniably the vegetal aspect of linen. In shirting, plaids are woven with slub yarn; linen-y end-and-end weaves are popular when washed and softened. In knits, the vegetal aspect predominates, as much for the sweatshirt with irregular fleece as tee-shirts in 100% linen and linen-viscose.
For both shirts and knits, stripes stand out: this season they are popular in bayadere with stark contrasts and wide spacing.
For small, mainly womenswear pieces, fantasy motifs play on slightly transparent supports: façonné cotton voiles, cut yarn, dotted Swiss, jacquard knits and diaphanous jerseys with transparent stripes.
JACKETS BLOUSONS PANTS
The spotlight is on freshness, as much in terms of touch as bright and washed colours. Everything that evokes vegetal nobility drew notice, including the fineness of slub linen and the firmness of fine, dense cloth. Lightness is often associated with stretch for “skinny” styles that appeal to both genders.
Denim with a difference
In jeanswear, the finish no longer makes the difference: here, materiality is the gauge of quality and buyers were seeking to move away from the classic diagonal by choosing dobbies or ultra-simple cloths. A technical touch is noted, with an emerging attraction for waterproof, breathable indigos.
For trouser weights, the desire for lightness translates into increased selections of refined stretch cottons and very dense cotton-polyamide blends. That density was also popular in more fluid versions with cupro et Lyocell blends.
For easy, elegant bombers and jackets, scuba knits and 3D meshes were popular in more natural compositions of cotton and linen combined with synthetics. For woven jackets and trousers, dense linens and cotton-linen blends were most popular when supple and dry.