Best Spring / Summer 2017
The Best survey conducted during Première Vision Fabrics gathers and relays buyers’ reactions to solid and decorative fabrics for spring summer 17. This season, our teams interviewed 291 exhibitors representing every specialty: high fancy, embroidery, laces, knits, prints, silkies, shirting, tailoring, lining, tech, premium relax and high-end jeanswear.
Best survey results break out international buyers’ preferences in various markets (men’s, women’s, casualwear, sport and outdoor). The survey then presents the top colours and leading fabric directions. Post-show, a closer analysis of these fabric and decoration choices offers an overview of emerging fashion trends for spring summer 17.
Already, several themes are common to different markets. This season, lightness is gaining ground across sectors. The desire for naturalness is moving away from rusticity in favor of a dry feel; a blast of technicality works itself into everyday wear and the apparent simplicity of visuals evoke a fresh, tonic and refined spring summer 17.
DRY MATERIALS WITH A SEDUCTIVE FEEL
Across sectors, selections focused on fabrics that, beyond their visual aspect, champion differentiation.
An arid feel, strong vegetal sensations, and very natural linens are becoming highly attractive.
Solids have a rough yet fresh character, in bare cottons and suiting with a subtle irregularity of fiber.
Matte crêpes are popular in knits as well as in woven fabrics for their grain and long-lasting fluidity.
Even in lace and embroidery, a soft hand is less sought-after than dry feels.
SHIVERING TEXTURES ENRICH SURFACES
They love it when it moves! Buyers gravitated toward living fabrics, with fresh, moving surfaces.
Among top picks: seersuckers for suiting and shirting, for both men and women.
The attraction of light textures holds especially true for crêponnés, rippling knits and slightly cloqué silks.
Wrinkled effects on fluid fabrics were particularly attractive to women’s buyers and, more discreetly, for shirting with an un-ironed finish.
THE NEW ESSENTIAL LIGHTNESS OF FABRICS
Unanimously, buyers were looking for lightness first and foremost. Collections are already showing a blast of freshness.
Suiting is deliberately airy, the trend is toward refined yet dense cottons, and men’s shirting flirts with transparency.
That transparency comes through in silks and knits, where the desire for lightness translates into cut-yarn jacquards, hollowed-out stripes and burnt-out prints.
Lightness brushes with immateriality showing a selection of ultra-light technical fabrics among tech players and ever-finer iterations of Chantilly by lace-makers.
BOTANICAL LUSHNESS TAKES OVER DECORATIVE FABRICS
For decorative fabrics, designers offer up vivid reinterpretations of nature with slightly prickly herbariums and fresh, bracing watercolour gardens and bouquets.
The most popular all-over prints feature wildflowers and floral grounds scattered with birds.
The meeting of flora and fauna was also popular in more tropical variations, in which jungle foliage and flowers are populated with exotic animals.
The passion for plants is also notable in laces, with a selection of designs that are leafier rather than floral.
GRAPHIC STRIES GET BOLDER
Buyers were drawn to the frankly bold visual impact of stripes for spring summer 17.
They yielded to the temptation of confident simplicity in enlarged stripes for shirting.
They went for contrasting bayadere horizontal stripes in silk and knit, in multi-coloured versions, mixing light and bold stripes or opaque and transparent ones.
The appeal of strong and dynamic visuals extended far beyond just fabrics for small pieces.
This season, big, bold stripes are cropping up on suiting and appearing generously on linens and summer tweeds.
IMPERFECT COLOUR GIVE SOLIDS MORE NUANCE
Apparent simplicity that’s richly produced is one of the season’s key fabric directions.
For this reason, the most popular solid fabrics are not truly uniform.
First among finishings and looks: washed-out fabrics! This goes way beyond denim selections.
In shirting, knits, trouser-weight cottons and even tailoring, variations in colour intensity and washes are highly appreciated.
This taste for nuance comes through in decorative fabrics, with subtly gradated silks, imperfect screen printings, and freshly faded motifs.