The Best survey reveals a new masculine elegance. Buyer’s choices break with the rigid codes of classic tailored works, without out-rightly championing anything too casual. The men’s universe for winter 17-18 is infused with suppleness, a leitmotif foreshadowing new volumes. Earliest selections point to less-rigid menswear in quest of a distinctive and subtle fantasy, a truly chic allure often featuring a broken suit.
The simply classic shirt loses ground in favour of printed motifs and fantasy weaves. Choices for chic mercerized cottons go to the offbeat, with enlarged checks. Knits are even envisioned for shirts.
One buyer out of five talked about velvetiness. This record score is mainly concentrated in 100% cottons, emerised or brushed. But the demand also extends to wool-cotton blends. The desire for a shirt with a caressing feel leads choices towards pinwale corduroys.
Not so plain
Yet again this season, buyers liked a certain ambiguity between a plain and a pattern – as in micro-jacquards, subtle plays between end-on-ends and figureds, monochrome or two-tone fancy weaves, and woven or printed micro-patterns.
Hanging by a thread
Breaking news this season: designers were attracted to visuals enriched with fancy yarns. Engineered yarns trace out stripes and checks, throwns and jaspés
give a new vibration to patterns. Audacious!
COATS, JACKETS AND SUITS
Wrap up in warmth
By favouring airy, blown up suitings and deceptively heavy woollens, buyers herald fuller structured volumes for winter 17-18, with rounder coats and enveloping jackets.
A unanimous vote for plains in menswear, as long as they have something distinctive. Perfectly regular plains are preferred full, dense and supple, compact and flexible. Monochrome plains have to feature well-marked diagonals.
Subtly rich sobriety
More than half of buyers preferred a confidential chic. Close up, something has to be going on: dark checks feature muffled vibrations, Prince of Wales patterns melt into colour depths, suiting jacquards are monochrome.
Very pale and very dark: buyers want stark contrast. This visual boldness is confirmed in the choice of new takes on houndstooths and opticals. And above all, clearly visible stripes and enlarged tennis or banker stripes are emerging in suitings this season.