Winter 1718 champions the very DNA of casualwear. Buyers’ requests centre on relaxed looks that have stopped trying to move closer to tailoring. A sea change! Comfortable and comforting, versatile and easy to wear, the look-good/feel-good fabrics this season all have a touch of fantasy…a touch of originality is expected.
TOPS & SHIRTS
Off-kilter authentics find favour. Selected checks are all slightly shifted: not quite plaids, not quite ginghams, not quite windowpanes. Colourways are offbeat too, and fancy yarns are game-changers.
Even more than in other sectors, casual tops have to be warm and enveloping. Ultra brushed and supple cottons; truly velvety knits and creamy interlocks.
Another take on fleece
Sweats, the key item in the relaxed wardrobe, feature fancier knits: fleeces with exaggeratedly bouclé interiors, double jerseys with a woolly aspect, or stitch-plays borrowed from sweaters.
JACKETS, BLOUSONS, PANTS
A wave of velveties emerged last winter, and this season it focuses on fancy corduroys. Buyers look for very visible ribs and printed or figured velvets that are resolutely supple and light.
Perfection and neatness are expectations shared by all the different markets, but take on an unexpected dimension in premium relax. Designers opted for very well drawn diagonals, and perfectly structured plains.
The comfort demanded of outer-layer pieces favour suppleness combined with brushed or emerised finishings. A cosy flexibility, especially seen in pant weights, where stretch is a must! In denim, buyers noted fabrics with a knit/woven ambiguity.
Fluidity over all
The casualwear market clearly prefers fluidity to firmness. This is rendered even more evident by the increase in compositions incorporating Lyocell or viscose. A direction opening the door to decidedly more feminine casualwear.