For all species of leather, aniline and semi-aniline finishes remain the benchmark. And softness proves to be the key for a growing number of articles.
Lambs leather – even stretch – has to be nappa, calf leather obviously has to be dipped, whilst goat leather should as far as possible be boarded.
The fullness is rounded and they are silky to the touch.
But suede and nubuck finishes on lamb, goat or calf won over visitors, providing they adopted bright summer shades.
Mechanical grains were particularly appreciated on the large bull and cow leathers. Matt or semi-matt aspects took precedence over shiny finishes.
But patent bovine leathers still had their fans, as did printed ponyskin and a wide variety of embossed patterns.
Flocked calf leather from Benericetti also caught the eye of professionals, even though they are hardened to the novelties of fashion.
“Cracked lambskins are still popular,” Sandro Fedi from Fedi Silvano tannery told us, “as are leathers pasted on textiles and ovine leathers covered with a metallic film.”
Exotic leathers are even more popular with professionals from the big labels, looking for both rarity and visibility.
Soft and supple leather is important for them too, as is a matt finish. Whilst colour, whether a block colour or a palette of shades,
is increasingly present in their wild universe.
On the textiles side, two opposing trends stood out in the requests from visitors to our specialist exhibitors.
On the one hand, natural fibres like cotton and linen, enhanced by natural shades, confirm their summer dominance.
On the other hand, technical nylons, whether washed or in partnership with other materials, illustrate the influence of technical sport in current fashion trends.
This season, finishes are consumed by illusion.
Imitations are of the highest quality, whether animal prints, fake perforations or imitation weaving, in the style of shagreen or snakeskin;
leather adopts these finishes and more. Similarly the dual between matt and lustre takes centre stage. On the one hand, extreme matt finishes lie
like a delicate veil on leathers and transform the grain, conferring nobility on the material and adding a touch of elegance.
On the other hand, shine gives way to a more subtle lustre where beautiful waxes embellish the product, giving it an even more luxurious aspect.
In contrast, a whitening effect lightens leather, softening the tone and making it seem younger.
Three main palettes structure the colours of summer 2015. The first confirms the classic shades – black, brown, navy, claret, charcoal grey,
beige and ivory – as the leading pack of sure-fire values. However, a number of exhibitors noted a slight decrease in demand for black,
which was less systematically chosen by buyers. A second palette of bright colours, from hard blue to poppy red, via candy pink, buttercup yellow,
aniseed green, turquoise and even purple, demonstrate the ongoing penchant for high-energy colours from designers.
A third route was made up of sugary pastels, like mint green, pale pink, chick yellow, pearly grey and coral, bringing a touch of freshness
and fashion but not degenerating into insipidness.
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