(Becem Jallouli, Roberto Scovazzo, Javier Morera, Cristian Graziotti, Jordi Ballus, Federico Carraro.)
WASHING IS A KEY COMPONENT IN LEATHER, DENIM AND SLACKS, AND CAN TRANSFORM PRODUCTS.
« We work closely with weavers and launderers.
No one merely ‘executes’ anymore, now everyone puts forward new ideas and proposals. We combine various washes and wear-effects to propose unique pieces. Today, garment washing represents about 50% of the cost of the finished product, as opposed to just 10% a few years ago. Washing is an essential added-value to the finished product. It gives soul to the product.»
Becem Jallouli, Ulysse Fashion (Manufacturing, 6U22)
« Washing opens new horizons for skin uses,
and provides a new perspective on luxury. In crocodile, for example, washes aren’t used as much as they should be. Our crocodile is sanded and washed, so it gets a denim look.»
Roberto Scovazzo, RAE (Leather, 3G83)
« For a spinner specialised in indigo,
washing is one of the most important elements. It’s the very basis of our work. An indigo-dyed yarn offers many more possibilities than a basic blue one. But of course, the right looks depend on precision washing. Our denim yarn collections come in two finishings: basic enzyme or an extremely cutting-edge finishing that gives a more summery tonality. Our new yarn collection develops blends of Lurex, wool or linen.»
Javier Morera, Industrias Morera SA-Unitin (Yarns, 5P80)
« It’s through dosing the enzyme washes
according to the specific nature of the compositions that we can achieve different looks and handles. In our new collection, we washed fabrics made of Cupro, Tencel and micro-modal. The treatments give fabrics a really interesting quality: the visual aspect is more matt and compact, while the hand is suppler, like washed silk.»
Cristian Graziotti, Infinity (Fabrics, Wash&Dye, 6G37)
« We use artisanal washes for our denim.
We look for the most ecological solutions, for example we rely on ozone or laser treatments, or cryogenic corrosion. The aim is to replace the sodium hypochlorite and permanganate that continue to be used too widely in washings.»
Jordi Ballus, Textil Santanderina (Fabrics, Wash&Dye, 6H29)
« We use an all-natural wax on our fabric or leather labels
which, combined with washes, gives a worn look to the materials we use. These treatments lend a visual quality to the product, and colour nuances – but they also give it a very special handle.»
Federico Carraro, Ribbontex (Accessories, 4H29-4I30)