MENSWEAR HAS NO MORE BORDERS
© Suzusan/Shigoto project LECLAIREUR X Première Vision
“Sometimes, a sense of beauty goes beyond time, countries and cultures. The jacket I created for the Shigoto project uses the ancient japanese shibori technique as a contemporary key.” Hiroyuki Murase, Creative Director, Suzusan. Maison d’Exceptions, hall 6
“Today’s man takes himself less seriously. He wants to have fun without sacrificing a certain distinction. The new embroidered fabrics for this market are creative, funny, but also luxurious and carefully elaborated down to the last detail.” Rachel de Lagenest, Head of Design Outerwear and Special Projects, Bischoff Textil, Fabrics, 5l11
THE NEW MASCULINE ELEGANCE? CREATIVE, SURPRISING, UNINHIBITED AND – WHY NOT? – UNISEX
LACE, EMBROIDERY, BROKEN SUITS… MEN’S FASHION KNOWS NO BOUNDS. In a growing quest for creativity, from the upstream to the downstream of the textile sector, the watchword is fantasy. “In men’s fashion, everything remains yet to be done. People’s habits change and fashion has to accompany these developments, to anticipate the future.” LECLAIREUR founder Armand Hadida is certain: men’s fashion is the new land of avant-garde fabrics. Whether lowkey or eccentric, the 15 designs resulting from the collaboration between designers at his Paris store concept and the Première Vision exhibitors have created an ode to creativity, for free spirits who enjoy breaking with established codes.
“The boundaries of men’s fashions are opening up, and we are delighted. You can see it in the way our clients use women’s laces in their menswear,” says Adeline Sapin, head of the style department at Solstiss (Fabrics, 5H2). Specialised in lace from Calais-Caudry, this French company is more and more sought after by major men’s fashion brands for all-over lace jackets and wholly transparent shirts that offer go-anywhere solutions for day as well as night. “After decades, the situation is now reversed: today, it’s men who are choosing laces – the very image of femininity,” says the designer, speaking of the new boxers in unisex lace.
Embroideries carve out the lion’s share in the changing frontiers in the world of masculine elegance. At Bischoff Textil (Fabrics, 5L11), embroidery is rolled out on denim, jersey and wool like a precious finishing, as well as in allovers. “Men’s embroidery is characterised by a search for volume and structure that means an emphasis on quiltings, as well as eyelet embroidery,” explains Rachel de Lagenest. For Alvise Boniver Conte at Estethia/G.B. Conte (Fabrics, 5P4), this trend is being confirmed as well: conceived for womenswear, their geometric micro-motifs have for years been attracting the interest of the new casual menswear, which favours combining jersey jackets with sports pants.
The real key to this search for renewal is the ‘broken suit’, all the rage at specialists in formal fashion. Joseph H. Clissold (Fabrics, 6L25) likes it lowkey, with very fine variations of nuances and motifs. The coordination possibilities are virtually endless, for an approach to style where personalisation is synonymous with personality. Amazingly creative.
THE MEETING OF DESIGNERS
Presented at Première Vision Manufacturing (HALL 6), the LECLAIREUR X Première Vision Shigoto Project invited 15 designers to update this Japanese-style jacket in cooperation with exhibitors. Their collaboration demonstrates the importance of the creative links between the upstream and downstream sides of the fashion industry, as
confirmed by Armand Hadida, founder of LECLAIREUR: “Today, textiles are more than ever an integral part of fashion. The choice of fabric can make the difference between a simple jacket and a museum piece.”
Exhibition Shigoto Project LECLAIREUR X Première Vision
Hall 6 North – Première Vision Manufacturing