6 VIEWPOINTS FROM DAY 3
FEATHERWEIGHT FABRICS, AIRY TEXTILES, MINIMAL THICKNESS: THERE’S LIGHTNESS IN THE AIR THIS WINTER.
“WE SPECIALISE IN FINE AND LIGHT TECHNICAL TEXTILES. Some of our polyamides weigh only 26 grams per sqm! This quest for featherweights pushes us to innovate sustainably, with textiles ranging from 30 to 50 grams per sqm derived from recycled waste, and devoid of fluorocarbon products, despite their water-resistance, so they’re 100% PFC-free.
John Eun, One Chang Material, Fabrics, 6H18
“OUR FRENCH DUCK DOWN is 80/20 (20% of feathers for 80% of down), making it one of the lightest on the market. By putting more or less fill in the garment, we transition from parkas to the blousons. This variable makes the quilting offer perfectly adaptable to weather changes, thanks to its ability to regulate body temperature. The lightness of the product will be further impacted by the choice of fabrics. Our elaboration of this combination of extra-light textiles and an ultra-volatile high-quality down enables us to lighten military garments, for example.”
Sophie Pineau, Getex, Manufacturing, 6U16
“THANKS TO A VERY OPEN KNIT, some of our cashmeres can attain weights of 230 grams per sqm. We also are betting on a breathing effect,
with some extra fine Merinos. The wool is then embroidered in floral patterns or jacquards, for example, for a textured and slightly quilted effect.”
Helen Morgan, Johnstons of Elgin, Fabrics, 6S5
“I LIKE TO LET SOME AIR INTO MY DESIGNS. I think out my compositions with a lot of background, and sometimes even surrounded by emptiness, which gives them quite a bit of depth. For the first time, I created hollowedout motifs this season.”
Briagëll Perret, Briagëll Perret, Designs, 5V82
“WE QUILT PYTHON. Surprising, no? Step 1: refine skins to the max through a mechanical process. Next, the skins are placed on two layers of
intermediate fabrics, with softening properties. Finally, a 3rd fabric is sewn with the other three elements as an underlayer. These textile layers combined with the refined skin lets us elaborate quilted skins that are less and less heavy.”
Matteo Ciceri, Pellami Ciceri, Leather, 3G19
“I AM INTERESTED IN THE VERSATILE OR EVEN HYBRID NATURE OF TEXTILES. Just because it’s winter we don’t have to be saddled down in huge outfits. A fabric that looks thick can actually be ultra -light to the touch! That’s what I hope for this season.”
Natasha Lenart, Director of product development at Victoria Beckham, PV Awards 2016 jury member