Progetto Uno, 6E23
Well tempered fantasy
Colourful and rich but thoroughly subtle. It’s yes to elaborated yarns, with tweedy effects, but tone-on-tone, with muted fl avours. A quite particular demand, especially important in brushed or scratched casual cottons, adorned with blurry or snowy woolly effects. In wools and suitings, blurry tweeds and Shetlands move to the fore. For shirtings, choices go to multicolour checks and decorations that are prettily faded thanks to warm finishings.
Fiveol Textil, 5L38-5M37
A feminine note
The barriers are coming down. Men now want stretch and fl uidity. In short, comfort. And not only fashionable types – everyone! Both in the city and in sportswear. Heightened elasticity, even two-way elasticity, is looked for, for pants that are close to the body and more athletic. Suppleness turns up among the high scorers, while comfortable knit aspects are indispensable.
Gruppo GF, 5M56-5N57
A little touch of tech
In the city, invisible technology is a must. Water-repellent, easy care… the performance codes catch the eye. But take care – function has to give way to elegance, visuals, fashion. In handles, a touch of synthetic isn’t dismissed, to lend energy to suitings.
Destro Diffusione, 6G28
Weaves at all costs
The weave steps into the role of a small 3D decoration. Ultrarefi ned and elaborated fabrics are extremely sought-after. Buyers are enthusiastic spectators, with honed eyes and looking for structural details in suitings. Dobbies dominate shirtings choices. On the cotton side, illusion carries the day. The weave is fake. Prints play look-alike for everyday fantasy.
Lanifi cio Luigi Colombo, 6J2-6K1
All blown up
There’s still an obsession with volume, but nothing too heavy. It’s a race for skilful solutions! The winners are double-faces and their very distinctive puffi ness; face-back brushed looks that fl irt with hairies; the cottony cosiness of velours and velvets. They’re almost limp, a bit regressive. We even heard a hunt for «pyjamas» – but chic, of course.
Hield Brothers, 6K26-6L23
Neatness creates a buzz
There’s a slight murmur. Going against the fl ow, some results indicate that there’s room for smooth, compact, dynamic, lustrous and calendered looks. Cottons and suitings meet up in a quest for casual elegance.
Buyers look for assemblies to modify handles, weights and jump start new manufacturing methods. Even if, of course, they like meticulous backs and decorative outer layers. The subtlety of collages appeals to them, like knits twinned with wovens, thick woolens affixed to gummy films.
A detailed summary of the A15 W16 Best survey coming soon at premierevision.com