Technology serving fantasy
Why choose when you can have it all? From fabrics to leathers and accessories, textile research is expanding and marked by the complexity and richness of processes and manipulations. Whether the result is low-key or baroque, lightweight or structured, this constant upping of the stakes in techniques, finishings and fantasy addresses a growing need for personality, for designs where elegant and casual fashions, technology and tradition, are all combined.
For Selecta Como (Fabrics, 5D16 5E15), the key to success is an “unpredictable simplicity” built on contrasts and oxymorons: the simplest graphic motifs are printed on nets or complex, laminated and burnt-out jacquard fabrics, cut yarns play off transparency and finishes add voluminous or gummy details.
The accumulation of techniques is also a fundamental ingredient of new research at Portugal’s Polopique Tecidos (Fabrics, 6E10 6F7), where cut-yarns, end-on-end micro-motifs and embroidered figurative details are worked on poplin or Oxford fabrics.
And France’s Cuirs du futur (Leather, 3F43 3G44) is betting on stretch leathers on which a metallic transfer paper, in sequinned or fantasy versions, provides a unique visual depth. The result, completed by an overprinting of animal or herringbone motifs and a finishing that gives leather a velvet touch, is the perfect marriage of natural and artificial.
As for accessories, SEAB (Accessories, 4G12) confirms this trend towards mixed traditions emphasising manual techniques as well as technology. In the labels made by this Italian company, the industrial development of felting embroidery freely joins hands with crew-cut stitching and sublimation printing , for volume effects and plays on motifs and unusual handles. Always more.