PV Awards 2016, the winners
OLIVIER GABET* “IT’S NOT ABOUT BEING IN THE ZEITGEIST, IT’S ABOUT EXACTLY PINPOINTING OUR TIMES.”
*Director of the musées des Arts Décoratifs (France) and President of the 2016 PV Awards jury.
“AT THE PV AWARDS I DISCOVERED THAT THE WEAVERS AND TANNERS WERE CHARTING A NEW COURSE, WITH FUTURISTIC TRANSFORMATIONS ON HISTORICAL OR TRADITIONAL BASES.” Giampietro Baudo, editor in chief, MF Fashion, 2016 jury member
“OF ALL THE PRESENTED FABRICS, I WAS ATTRACTED TO SOFT HANDLES TEAMED WITH GEOMETRIC VISUALS, FOR STRANGE THINGS THAT GAVE
ME IDEAS FOR CLOTHING WITH A TRIUMPHANT FEMININITY.” Maria Luisa Requena, senior fashion consultant, El Corte Inglés, 2016 jury member
WHAT WERE THE WORKING GOALS FIXED BY THE 2016 JURY YOU CHAIRED?
Handing out prizes is a way of saying something about today’s world. Rather than just being in step with the times, we wanted to represent the moment itself, to exactly pinpoint our times: 2016, 2017, 2018…
WERE THE JURY’S DECISIONS OBVIOUS AND CONSENSUAL?
The 2016 jury members reflect an interesting diversity: individuals from the press, the industry, but also enlightened amateurs like myself. We truly made our decisions, if not always consensually, definitely out of a strong desire to choose the best, because we wanted our decisions to reflect strong ideas.
WHAT ARE THE STRENGTHS OF THE JURY GRAND PRIZES THIS EDITION?
The Grand Jury Prize for fabrics is a kind of netting by Ventures, with plays on beautiful beads, embroidered to each other, while each remains independent and moves at its own rhythm. It’s magic, and totally subtle. I still don’t know how it works. You can imagine it in a range of colours, in various combinations, and maybe even figurative motifs. The Grand Jury Prize for leather went to Dileather, for a very powerful leather, marked by stripes, irregular pleatings and magnificent cracklings in a very deep emerald green. It looks like it’s lived a lot, already been a sophisticated coat, for example, yet with something quite graphic and very plastic about it.
WHAT WERE SOME OTHER JURY FAVOURITES?
The Handle Prizes share an intense night blue colour. Japanese Tanner Sakamoto Corp. used an indigo for a shimmering, very elegant piece, with great depth and beautiful texture. In fabrics, the Handle Prize winner is a very dense knit crepe from Luxury Jersey. It isn’t a really obvious fabric – it’s soft and harsh at the same time, a little stretch, both fluid and heavy. The fabric Imagination Prize was given to an incredible Henri Portier silk, extremely visual, very «modern French school». It’s a satin printed on the back, where the print hardens the textile in places, creating an articulated fabric. For the leather Imagination Prize, we chose an ultra-smooth, ultra-oiled skin, reduced to its strictest truth. Anil Tannery made it as a kind of parchment for today: both transparent and supple, ancient and very modern.