MY JOB: EFFERVESCENT DESIGNER
Rosa Pujol, creative director at Gratacos (Fabrics, 5H1), was featured in the latest Première Vision Paris promotional campaign.
I BEGIN BY WRITING. That’s how I start a collection. By building a story. No shapes or colours for the moment. And then come the yarns, which are woven through my first ideas.
Will it be silk, nylon and polyester for the warp? It depends on the season… The degree of fantasy will be played out on the weft. Finally, and only then I decide on the colour stories. I always work with a palette of six colours, which constitute the basis of the collection and a large part of its personality. Then I break down a range of nuances, for the elaborated ombrés and plains.
Work methods have really changed in a decade. Colour choices are much more conditioned by clients’ sales figures. There are fewer clear-cut directions, fewer farflung, exuberant, radical products. Caution is the byword. On the other hand, the rapid evolution of technologies has been very positive, enabling the creation of amazing, more hybrid, more mixed textiles. More performant fabrics too. What’s important, when we show our collection, is not having to say anything. Because a full understanding of the fabric takes place between the hands and the eyes.
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