Just an appetizer.
There’s a somewhat brutal violence to some of the aspects this season. Something impulsive and occasionally aggressive enlivens surfaces. Bushy coats and torn-out brushings herald decadent fur-trimmed coats. Plains are decoratively but intentionally degraded or deteriorated, with scratchings, scrapings and frayed effects, presaging clothing with a tormented look.
A suppleness that fills the hand. There is a certain lasciviousness to this weighty fluidity. Soft silkies, dense cushy cottons, and viscose-Tencel blends nicely accompany movement, pointing to dresses and pants that wrap or enrobe the body.
Both in depth and on the surface, fabrics make a point of occupying space. Some are puffy. Scubas, quiltings and maxicloqués grow almost bulky, for imposing but lightweight outerwear. Other, more sharply honed versions, play on optical illusion, making use of faceted reliefs and 3D drawings.
Somewhat coarse blanketings fl aunt a new luxurious nobility. Woollens with a raw look are extremely soft. Authentic visuals lose their rough touch and go all cosy. But these textures with their natural, comforting charm call for pared-down, even minimalistic, designs, to let the fabrics speak…
Textured exteriors and smooth interiors. Or smooth on the outside and teddy-bear softness on the inside. Bonded double satins ensure a muscular suppleness. Wool outsides and cotton backs … New assemblies also join wovens and knits, in solid and soothing back-to-back unions. As do triple layers sandwiching thin foams, resulting in a malleable roundness. Fashionable clothing has cleverly diverted iconic staples from the world of sports to give birth to assemblies with surprising handles.
Whatever the graphic register, decoration grounds are growing more varied. Prints and embroideries alight on woollens, and jacquards grow heavier. Drawn fantasies expand their field of adventure, traversing the entire silhouette from tops to coats. Flowers colonise coat weights, geometrics enrich trouser weights. Fantasy makes its way onto everything, even fabric backs.
Drawn by hand
Hand-drawn graphics come into power. Digital tools no longer impose their signature style. Hand-drawn designs instil their unique sensibility, with their expressive lines, spontaneous brush strokes, deliberate gestures, and generous swaths. Hand-drawing becomes quite visible. Its graphic expression is simplified, becoming more immediate and readable. In everything from sketches to more fully-realised designs, both in prints and in embroideries and jacquards.
Discover the show’s key fabrics in The Forum, and essential ingredients for autumn winter 15 16 in the season’s information booklet, along with the color range >