Martin Leuthold / Michel Chasseignaux / Yann Pétillault / Roberto D’Agata / Janaïna Milheiro / Ilario Tartaglia
SOME KNOW-HOWS ARE PERPETUATED, OTHERS ARE REINVENTED. BUT THERE’S SOMETHING EXTRA-ORDINARY IN EACH OF THEM.
“I want to say that nothing is impossible.
If I have an idea, if I feel that it is in tune with the times, I ask an engineer to develop a new machine. It does not always work the first time but we get there in the end. This time, we were able to weave ribbons in the same material as sequins. We are also presenting a printed plastic film, laser-cut in little wavelets, sewn on a mixture of silk and Lurex yarns. Everything inspires me, craftsmanship, my garden, our archives or a child playing with multi-coloured elastics. I made a fabric that has 17,000 of these multi-coloured mini-elastics per square metre.”
Martin Leuthold, Jakob Schlaepfer (Fabrics, 5L6-5M5)
“Grain boarding is a technique used to bring out the grain
of certain skins like goatskin, deerskin or buffalo. You can do it by hand, on small surfaces for bindings, for example. A mechanical approach is more suitable for leathergoods and footwear. Two large cork cylinders compress the skin without crushing it. For luxury products, we prefer hand boarding, which gives a rounder grain.”
Michel Chasseignaux, Mégisserie Jullien (Leather, 3G42)
“Our enamel porcelain buttons and jewellery
are handmade and each mould is unique. We work by stamping (3 forging hammers) and with at least two firings. The colours are endless, just like in faience …”
Yann Pétillault, Ypac (Accessories, 4H42)
“We are developing extra fine flatbed knits.
We were the first to present an intarsia knit in an 18 gauge and needles. We knit a very delicate cashmere silk yarn on the machine, and the very fine knit is also tighter, firmer. In cotton, we are showing a fairly thick cross knit made from an 15 micron yarn. The density of the knit combined with the extreme fineness of the yarn gives an astonishing handle – flexible, soft, almost foamy without undergoing any kind of treatment.”
Roberto D’Agata, Bruno Atelier (Knitwear Solutions, 6KW 123)
“I have developed a new technique combining marquetry
and feathergluing on textiles. I buy duck, peacock and goose feathers that I apply to an organza in special motifs, or in an all-over design.”
Janaïna Milheiro, (Maison d’Exceptions, Hall 6)
“We are perpetuating the ancestral techniques of Venitian textile weaving.
We work with natural materials which we blend together to achieve decidedly modern products.”
Ilario Tartaglia (Maison d’Exceptions, Hall 6)