(Design : Circleline)
From macro motifs to plays on scale and volume, over-size accessories and coarse-count yarns, the new season heralds a joyful excess.
The macro scale and plays on layers are also at the heart of new research at Circleline (Première Vision Designs, 5W32) : This English design studio interprets a return to a hand-drawn and pictorial look inspired by the works of artists such as Picasso and Matisse, and a new youthfulness in classic geometric patterns – from paisleys to polka dots and squares – all updated by a preference for full, generous proportions.
At Dentelles André Laude (Première Vision Fabrics, 5K5), from France, large floral motifs take the lion’s share, both for wedding dresses and cocktail. Whether figurative or abstract, the over-size motifs proposed by this lace-maker from Calais Caudry are strikingly contrasted with large honeycombed grounds that maximise visual impact via a 3D effect.
Woven into this intersection between a search for visual impact and architectural volumes, the trend to excess extends to yarns as well, as confirmed by The Union Textile de Tourcoing (Première Vision Yarns, 6G61) : from coarse count yarns (1,9,2) to yarns to knit together in loose 1/2 or 3 gauges, or tone-on-tone combinations of bouclette in a variety of gauges, coarse counts give yarns tactile as well as visual texture.
At Riri (Première Vision Accessories, 4G35 4H34), this quest for size is above all synonymous with personality: the large format nickel-free zippers (in 10, 14 metal) offered by this Italian company in a wide range of tone-on-tone colours are coordinated with buttons, making these accessories style-setters on their own, for both clothing and leather goods. For bigness with style and finesse.