Arts thread trend report
INDIGO PARIS FASHION EDITION SEPTEMBER 2014
In another strong season of pattern, colour and texture, ARTS THREAD attended Indigo Paris Fashion Edition at Première Vision to take in the key trends and speak to a selection of exhibitors on show.
When it came to the trends, there was again a strong divide between those who design from those dictated by the catwalk and those who don’t. Particular trends that made an appearance throughout the event were:
- Stylised geometries – colour, geometry and sharp lines combine to create different shapes and spaces.
- Textured prints – infusing prints with textural effects.
- Fusing techniques – combining different techniques. Drawing freely, engraving, scraping.
- X-Rayed Nature – using x-ray photography with the natural world.
- Layers and opposites – combining positive and negative, light and dark, opacity and transparency.
- Hyper-realism – finding inspiration in the ambiguity between photography and detailed patterns.
- Animals – be they graphically and digitally produced or hand-drawn, animals were a repeating motif throughout.
- Hand-made – Hand-drawn, hand-produced and artistically created by hand, there seemed to be a large interest in the realness of hand-produced designs.
We talked with some of the exhibitors at Indigo Paris
Fine artist Abby Litchman explained how her Brooklyn-based studio is one ‘rooted in fine art’. Discovering that there’s ‘something that’s so exciting about a brushstroke and how the inks bleed together,’ their designs take inspiration from trends and try to push the boundaries. This season, the studio looked at blurred florals and photo-florals and ‘feel wonderful growing the brand with Indigo. If it wasn’t for Indigo I’d be a tiny studio doing my own thing. It’s a global platform and I’m so grateful it exists.’
Design studio Treasure from London also pride themselves on producing hand-made products. Taking a huge dose of their inspiration from the ready-to-wear catwalk trends, they’ve ‘had some great people come in and see things,’ this season at Indigo.
Also from London, Pattern is another design studio who, putting a modern twist on their trend-driven collections, also noticed customers’ response to the artistic, or handmade quality of work. ‘People want that hand-drawn, arts and crafts aesthetic and a lot of people comment on that. They like heritage and knowing where things come from.’ In terms of showcasing with Indigo, they feel it’s been ‘really good. We’ve had a lot of new clients and over the past few years, although people have been travelling less, the Brazilian market seems to be really picking up.’
Although the artistic qualities of design seem to be a strong connection point for customers, it was mentioned numerous times that digital’s influence is just as attractive. Working principally with photography and the digital manipulation of these photographs, Brussels design studio Pieceofchic combine their travels with their own photography in their designs.
Producing three separate collections of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear, London-based Gathernomoss told us: ‘Placement graphic t-shirt graphics and florals are our thing. Its graphically led and we’ve been doing well with digital photography. The first day here, there were a good few hours where we were rushed off of our feet but it’s been much quieter this season. That said, it’s still been worth it and we’ve made a lot of new contacts.’
Based in London, Circleline ‘don’t follow catwalk trends at all’. With a motto of ‘be amazed’, Circleline strive to create collections that are different. ‘We sell to all levels of the market but they know that when they come to us, they’ll get something original.’ On showcasing with Indigo, Circleline said that it’s been ‘fantastic. I think there’s been a lot more Chinese customers come to the show and they’re really tuned into the idea of being original. They want to break into the international market and they’re realising that the only way to do that is to be original.’
Other exhibitors at Indigo Paris included the Milan studio Diamir Design, who are currently keen on ‘romantic florals and energetic abstracts’ and Made In Brighton, who describe themselves as ‘fresh, contemporary and inspiring, design for customers who want what’s on the catwalk’.
The best textile graduates from a selection of UK colleges were also showcasing with at Indigo Paris under the Texprint® banner, and, judged and selected on the high-quality of their work, put on an impressive display of weavers, knitters, printers, embroiders and mixed media designers.