Arts Thread show report
In the first edition to take in the new name Première Vision Designs, and with new website to sit alongside the new identity, Première Vision Designs had an springlike vibe this edition held in Paris February 10-12 2015. ARTS THREAD reports from the show on key trends and to speak with exhibitors at the show.
As always, some studios link to trends and others follow their own path. Strong trends from the show included:
- 70s Boho – dark, muted tones, florals, paisley, Indian influences, asymmetric, sinuous and swirling.
- Art School – inspiration from 20th century figurative art, line drawings, brush strokes, mark making – black and white plus muted 50s tomes.
- Black & White Florals – mid-scale designs, simple, silhouettes, sometimes with accent of bright.
- Pixelated & Distorted – new ways to show florals or stripe/plaids using a wide range of digital pixelated and distortion effects.
- Folkloric Mix – mixes of cultural references incorporating stripes and plaid treatments, placements and borders.
- Mini Florals – larger than the traditional ditsy florals, but ideal for low statement prints.
- Tropical Conversationals – with 40s-70s influences, tropical motifs ranged from birds and butterflies to wild life and poolside imagery.
- Assemblage – a mix of florals and abstract patterns creating new patchwork effects.
- Inky Blues – unexpected colour washes, overworked paisleys and florals.
We talked with some of the exhibitors at Première Vision Designs
Based across London and New York, The Colorfield print design studio has been in business for over 15 years. The Colorfield founder Adam Read tell us: “The show was very good for us, we were very busy for the first 2 days and even pretty steady on the last day which is normally pretty quiet. The show is an international show so always many different customers from many different countries outside of Europe. There is definitely a stronger presence from Brazil, India, China and Turkey.” We asked if the studio had seen other areas of the show? “We managed to visit the other parts of the show, mostly to visit the trend stands.”
Anne Victor Studio
Based in France, it was the first time Anne Victor Studio has exhibited at Première Vision Designs. The studio major in prints, patterns and embroidery for fashion, home furnishing and stationery. Anne tells us: “Our first participation at the Première Vision exhibition was a very positive experience. It was an opportunity to meet potential clients and professionnals from everywhere: freelance designers, fashion designers from ready-to-wear or Haute Couture companies, fabric manufacturers, furniture designers, professors and students, etc. We received a lot of compliments from the visitors who were very curious about our creative approach. They enjoyed our trends and we are hoping that it will lead to new partnerships in the future.”
As regards the Première Vision show as a whole, Anne comments: “It is very useful as the exhibition is a great source of inspiration. Each part of the exhibition influences one another. There is a lot of interaction, both on the creative side with trends and materials and the business side. The forums help to link the different parts of the exhibition.”
London-based embellishment studio Dammann Brown told us: “Lovely. It was a great show! Our best show yet!” The buyers of the studio’s embroidery and beading are mostly from the UK and the USA and range from designer such as Kate Spade though to High-street names such as Miss Selfridge and Asos.
Alicia Villodres Studio
Based in Barcelona, Alicia Villodres Studio is well known for its illustrative style, especially the allover character designs. Selling well this season were tropical conversationals. Alicia says: “The exhibition was so good for us. We increased our sales compared to February’s last edition in 2014.”
London-based Bonnie Kirkwood creates bespoke woven textile designs for both fashion and interiors. Bonnie told us: “The exhibition was very successful in terms of sales and gaining new contacts, together with receiving recognition from all visitors and customers for my designs.” While the show can sometimes appear print/pattern heavy, Bonnie notes: “I can see that there has been an increase in woven textile design exhibitors within the Designs section, which is very encouraging.” For Bonnie, trends in yarns included “sophisticated intricate patterns in exquisite silks, finest weaves in linen and cotton and innovative textures in wool and Chanel inspired fancy yarns.” We also asked Bonnie how she used the other sections of the Première Vision show: I visited the trend forums within Hall 5 and 6 which were very useful in terms of new fabric finishes, yarns and the new season’s colours.”
Carla Primiceri’s Italian PrimkaStudio tell us that this season the studio puts the emphasis on “animal and all-natural subjects, especially for clothing, scarves and accessories and also geometric, ethnic, and decorative patterns.” In terms of the show Carla says: “PVD Paris is always a great occasion to show the PrimkaStudio artwork to new customers and international companies. My assistant Karina Perez has some free time to visit the Leather and Accessories area and both were very useful.”
London-based Patternbank, up until now an online source for print, pattern and graphics, came to show their work offline for the first time at Première Vision Designs. Patternbank’s Andrew Limbert confirmed: “As this was our first Première Vision Designs show, it was a fantastic opportunity to showcase some of our premium designs and introduce visitors to Patternbank’s online print studio. The stand had good reaction with customers from the America, UK, Japan, Turkey and Spain.” We asked Andrew about the trends coming through from the studio: “We saw a strong trend towards indigo blue crafted patterns and paisleys. Also bold 70s floral prints were another key trend that’s coming through for Spring/Summer 2016.”
This was the first edition for KRJST Studio at Première Vision Designs. Based in Brussels, the studio collective of five designers work between technology and tradition, between design and art, with strong collaborations with brands such as Huawei, Eastpak and McAlson. We asked the team abut the show: “The exhibition was a nice way to open our studio to new clients and new brands. It is also interesting to see in how many ways print designs can be treated, used and presented. The two first days we had a lot of clients, the last day was more about meeting schools and start ups which is also nice.”
London-based Cake Studios gave us a run down of their key trends from the show, including scribbly florals, ‘patchworks’ of florals all mixed together, black and white with accents of brights and a revival of conversational prints. For the show, Carol and Dan said: “It was a great show. Very busy on the first day as always.”
Based in Dusseldorf, Lica Designs is run by Elisa Ostländer and majors on hand-painted and digitally trend-driven prints and embellishments. For spring/summer 16, Lica Designs trends are Active Botanic with new photo floral romanticism, Flowers & Patch looks at hand painting, mix and match and cut-out, Safari is 70s inspired, tropical, Africa in shades of green, while Asia Pastels has a romantic mood and 1980s features mix and match prints and line drawings.
Owens & Kim
70s Bohemian prints were a strong trend at London=based Owens & Kim, with asymmetric swirling florals, butterflies and paisleys. Also melange prints of digital effects, with washes of florals, animal textures and splashes of colour.
Whiston and Wright
London-based print studio Whiston and Wright were trending on 70s florals, ethnic Boho and bold graphics, as well as references to Pre-Fall Valentino and Nicole Miller. Tropicals were also selling well.