Accessories report Spring Summer 16
TECHNOLOGY & GLAMOUR
The first thing you notice is how shiny the stands are. A closer look confirms this general impression, and the comments from exhibitors converge: Accessories stand out. They are large, they sparkle, they come in a wide range of colours and breathtaking reflections…they are as proud as a peacock!
But there is no nostalgia for any major period of history in all this; accessories are perfectly in tune with modernity. They use 3D printing and downloaded applications. Silicon and all the materials of sport and workwear inspire them, for practical reasons as much as for aesthetic purposes. An explosive mixture of glamour and technology, the accessories of summer 16 flamboyantly break down barriers and habits, to reconcile luxury with daily life, and tradition with imagination.
Exhibitors focused on:
New sectors for luxury: Beachwear, jeanswear, sport and streetwear and even…dogwear!
Another idea of the nobility of materials: alongside the historically noble naturals, we also find beautiful plastics, EPI-certified synthetics and paper (mâché, Kraft, etc.)
Texture takes precedence over aspect: Rubbery, soft, succulent, spongy and relief effects (embossing, flocking, raised embroidery, inflated markings, and more.)
Colours that stand out from the crowd: Pure blues (dark indigo, navy), bright yellow and twine tones.
Oppositions: Black and white, tender pastels and energetic neons.
Special effects: Transparents, iridescents, metallics, shimmerings and ultra-matts.
Nuanced finishes: Mottled, flecked, marbled, scorched
BUTTONS & PRESS FASTENERS
It is a good year for buttons. The shapes are mainly simple but the materials, colours and transparent or marbled finishes are very detailed. We like them shiny, even shimmering. And we’re interested in galalith, even if polyester is still the fallback for price purposes.
The exhibition on buttons shone a spotlight on this accessory, showcasing exceptional savoir-faire such as the handmade ceramic buttons from Ypac, or the buttons from Conti Wej, made using the same methods used for glass in Venice.
OUR FAVOURITE: The herb buttons from Conti Wej. The sprigs of rosemary, parsley or fennel are attached as open inclusions and diffuse their aromas.
ZIPS, CLASPS & OTHER METAL ACCESSORIES
For the visual aspect, the trend is for pink gold and ultra-shiny finishes, or rubbery textures mainly in black and white.
Swivel clasps and satchel clasps are popular for leather goods, whilst metallic corners and studs are still present but stand out less (indeed, are almost flat) than in previous years.
A new refinement: Necklace clasps can now be customised.
NEW: Zips with customisable teeth using laser engraving from Euro-zipper
OUR FAVOURITE: The matt white zip with a porcelain feel from YKK.
A number of varieties once again for this accessory that is still very popular. This year, we find plenty of chains sewn onto braid, particularly wide bands of nylon mesh. They also combine with string, raffia and trimmings. They form the link between all types of accessories: Belts, jewellery, buckles, frogging…they are sometimes flocked, or covered with rubber, or like ACM, sheathed in faux leather.
Large plastic chains take on iridescent or silvery finishes.
NEW: Chains printed using ink-jet technology, from Made 4 Fashion.
EMBROIDERY & LACE
For lace, we like either rustic and noble linen in natural shades, or silky effects and lacquered coatings in extravagant colours, and sometimes a blend of both.
Embroidery, in turn, has the wind in its sails. Between military-inspired purl embroidery, richly coloured exoticism from India, Central Europe and the Middle East, or street and sport markings, they take pleasure in covering jeans and shoe soles, bags, bib fronts, flaps and more with decoration that cover the item in high relief.
NEW: Velvet embroidery (brush cut finish) from Wig.
OUR FAVOURITE: Embroidery Cornely-style using real copper wire from Dipama Italia.
LABELS & PACKAGING
The focus is on the connected labels from Dienpi, and the RFID chips from Tacchini style, not to mention the labels with QR codes from Labeltex: A very appreciable service both for logistics and for the final consumer.
On a design front, the transparency of PVC breathes new life into labels. But, rubbery textures are still popular, although facing competition from silicone, with its stronger grip.
The material takes preference over the visual: Lettering is once again simple and laconic.
On the packaging side, we hesitate between the raw eco-finish of battered Kraft and the modernity of supple plastic molded from one single piece. Tyveck, which is both sustainable and technical, forms the junction between the two.
RIBBONS, BRAID, WEBBING & LACES
Textile accessories manufacturers are split between decoration and technology. In the one corner, richly coloured or gold, silver and crystal braid launch their fireworks. In the other corner, webbing, elastics, drawstrings and ribbing using silicon, polyurethane and reflective microbeads are as beautiful as they are useful.
And lastly, the two-way stretch mesh ribs, which are breathable once stretched and covering when released, are creating a buzz in the little world of knit accessories from Shindo, Morito and Shimada Shoji.
OUR FAVOURITE: The three dimensional ribbons from Julien Faure created on six-shuttle looms
NEW: The SIO.2 range from the ribbon maker Satab, the first in the world to use silicon like a thread.
WEAVINGS & TRIMMINGS
Fringes, fringes and yet more fringes! Exuberant and bushy or long and silky, in foamy tulle, frayed cotton, girly raffia, in blends of colours and materials, on elastic braid for lingerie…their popularity is unanimous. Pompons come in second. And lastly, we note the crazy trimmings, made from wild or contorted knots in all possible materials: Leather, cords, metal chains, diamanté braid, sew-on gems that form straps, necklaces, clasps, waistbands and buckles for belts, bracelets, braids etc…
BELTS & BUCKLES
The belt is often the occasion to offer a touch of technology, to shake up the classics. The favourites are neons, moulded plastics, nylon, PVC, and technical buckles from Fantex. At Fashion tex, the military belt is decorated with neon incisions.
OUR FAVOURITE: The engraved pin belt buckle from Cobee
Jacron, rivets, labels, embroideries…denim has a world of its own. The general opinion is that the destroy trend is over. Labels are more elegant and more sober. Rivets and buttons are following the same route. A touch of metallic, iridescent or varnish adds the finishing touch and a hint of neon is welcome.
In fact, taking all accessories into account (leather, textiles, gems, etc.) working with denim is popular with many exhibitors.
OUR FAVOURITE: The buttons in washed blue corozo with scorched edges from Bottonificio Lenzi.
BEADS, GEMSTONES & DIAMANTÉ
They have regained volume and sometimes even reach the size of carafe stoppers! Made from plastic or paper mâché, they are both large and very light.
Beachwear is keen on decorations, jewellery and pendants, in a colourful and exuberant spirit.
Shine and transparency are the favourite finishes for warm colours. Blues and whites are happy to be more opaque.
Leather is used in woven or knitted panels or in strips that are sewn onto a base. Geometric patterns are the favourite and we play with 3D effects in a trompe l’œil finish. Woven braids are also used for handles, belts or buckles.
A stand-out item is tubular leather bracelets for men and women.
We prefer the natural tones and we have replaced outrageously aged effects by a noble patina.
OUR FAVOURITE: Faux leather from Serena in a patented material based on paper.