“Technologies are used in new ways, and evening moves closer to sports. This all gives a very innovative look to textiles. And, among the nominated fabrics, there’s always a very soft and reass uring side.”
Livia Stoianova, artistic director and co-founder of On Aura Tout Vu.
“Serving as Jury President of the PV Awards is a major responsibility. We understand how much companies invest to develop new fabrics. We know what it costs, and the technology it represents.”
Yassen Samouilov, artistic director and co-founder of On Aura Tout Vu.
The 2015 winners
PV Awards Grand Jury Prize : For the most outstanding and pertinent development of the season.
Leather, Mégisserie Alric
PV Awards Handle Prize : The development most distinguished for its tactile and behavioural qualities.
Fabrics, Fabrica Tessuti
Leather, Russo di Casandrino
PV Awards Imagination Prize : The most original development in terms of decoration, finishing, innovation or technology.
Fabrics, Federico Aspesi SRL
Leather, Fedi Silv ano
YESTERDAY AT 5 PM,
6 exhibitors received PV Awards.
For this 7th edition, the competition opened to tanners and tawers at Première Vision Leather. A jury of 12 influential international fashion figures awarded prizes to the most impressive winter 16-17 developments, with 3 prizes in the textile universe and 3 awards for leather (see box). Discussions began in early September, with the nomination of 24 leather skins and 94 fabrics.
Were the discussions tense? Fiery? Detailed? We’ll never know. But we do know that for their first participation, leathers inspired a great deal of excitement, surprise and emotion. Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov, co-founders of the On Aura Tout Vu couture house, chaired the jury. “We are truly proud to have participated in this event, focused on discovering what will be happening in the future. Première Vision remains the most important fashion event in terms of innovation, while remaining very connected to reality,” they stated. They also noted that, “in the samples we had in our hands, technological innovations never deterred from the intrinsic values of the fabric or leather. This season, both drape and handles were outstanding. The sample from Egedamla (Leather) for example, is a good compromise between utility and modernity – it had everything, handle, suppleness and strength.” For Pascaline Wilhelm, Première Vision fashion director, certain hybrids can skewer dress codes : “The Eusebio fabric (Fabrics) vibrates hot and cold and transformed a mesh into a velvet, and is extremely modern.” Jury member Laurent Lepainteur, Director of Leather Development at Saint Laurent Paris, singled out a product by France Croco (Leather): “In luxury, crocodile has a significant market share. This leather is quite original because it’s classic yet has a vintage treatment, and the smoothing process was interrupted to achieve a matt and glossy effect.” The technique can have a poetic dimension, according to Jaana Beidler, Director of the Fashion and Collection Design Master’s Program at Finland’s University of Aalto and a member of the jury. She loved “the whimsical side of the Vema sample (Fabrics), a textile in which the weaver merged two strongly contrasting approaches.