It is difficult to talk about fashion themes given that the accessories show is primarily and most importantly a place for unbridled creativity and expertise. Pleating feathers, softening stones, enamelling zipper teeth – sometimes it is the technical challenge that sparks the imagination, with a desire for something completely new giving zest to accessories. Other times, it can be comfort, lightness and softness that are inspiring because these discreet qualities have succeeded in making themselves absolutely essential.
And then there is the question of customisation, as the pop-up bar offering this service at the show demonstrated. “A la carte” decorations are back in force, reviving the heroic era of the ‘pins’. Accessories have become free radicals: exhibitors offer, buyers accept and the final customer … reworks things to their own taste, according to the mood and the colour of the moment. This is what we could call “participatory creativity”.
The stars of the season are velvet, wool and microfibers.
Club stripe braid, bias binding with tie prints, woolly grosgrain Masculine fashion is “be-ribboned” with elaborate details on the lining side.
Velvet is still a big hit for ribbons, whether it is stretch, stiff, or sequined.
Made from microfibers, heat-mouldable faux-suede and faux-leather produce transfers and labels as well as having other uses and are popular for their light weight and soft finishes.
Woven panels: Jacquard scenes, tufted wool, carpet weaves, but also laminations with laser cut-outs are offered as an alternative to leather for bag flaps, for encasing heels, etc.
Flocking is still very popular, riding on the passion for velvet. We find it on heels, buttons, lace, accessories, plastic, karabiners and metal chains.
Transfers have become more refined and are the passport to elegant clothing. Tiny crystals from Swarovski, mirror metallics from Hitit Transfert, not to mention the mini studs and hot fix crystals.
NEW: The different heights of hot fix decorations are no longer an obstacle for Hitit Transfert, which offers compositions combining flat sequins and small studs in relief.
Technical functional items
Sew-on press fasteners are definitely back.
EXCLUSIVE: Kiyohara breaks all the records for fineness and lightness with its ultra-flat press fasteners.
There is a wide choice of eyelets again for the coming season. Elongated shapes are popular, but reversible eyelets are the most in demand.
Square clasps have also made a remarkable comeback in leather goods.
There was also a lot of demand for snap hooks, which often have very elaborate designs and combine materials.
NEW: Assems presents its “hot melt” thread adapted to the creation of sports shoes, in order to modify the thickness and the stiffness of materials at certain parts of the shoe.
NEW: The perfectly circular reflective thread from JRC Reflex which can be used in knitting and embroidery machines.
In the zip sector, the metal is more elegant than ever with very shiny finishes and fine and large teeth. The contrasting puller, whether in terms of its material or style, can bring an original touch, while tapes can be personalised thanks to digital printing.
Unisex jewellery is increasingly popular and is moody and mysterious in black. Diamanté, stones, beads, silk or metal laces and chains are available in a rubbery black or a shiny black with occasional furtive highlights of petrol or beluga shades.
Insects such as ants, flies, ladybirds, etc., whether diamanté, gilded or dark, form a strange ballet that is part precious and part disturbing.
An Op Art spirit takes over jewellery with cubic beads in coloured plastic or metallic hollow structures made by 3D printing.
We note a passion for metallic balls in different sizes, some of which are available in a hot fix format, from Hitit Transfert.
NEW: Terracotta, lava or wooden inclusions, giving a new texture to resin beads from Micro.
The success of flat-bottomed stones suggests they will be very present on clothing.
Metal and plastic
For both metal and plastic, the trends oscillate between mirror-like shine and rubbery mattness.
There is strong demand for diamanté studded metal for clasps, buckles and more.
Belt buckles made from two materials continue to be popular this year: metal and leather, metal and horn, metal and wood…
The touch of colour is important: whether on a loop, a pin or an eyelet. Matt metal, rubbery metal…coloured metal.
Very large chains
NEW: The “dipped metal” effect from Britigraf: Medaillons which look just like metal but which are made from a light and supple plastic which is suitable for sewing machines.
Flowers: Plastic, enamel, metal…next winter’s flowers are full of freshness!
Macramé panels for bags, or strips for bracelets, necklaces, handles or belts.
Charms in colourful fur customize bags, bonnets and other items…
EXCLUSIVE: Pleated feathers from Galeotipiume
Two options for labels: either very playful or very sober.
The playful version sees them become a real accessory, to be added to everything, full of fun and joyfully blending embroidery, jacquard, printing and injection.
BEST: The padded labels from Harmanci.
BEST: The neon touch
The sober version has limited its palette to black, white and quartz pink. Occasionally a touch of neon may appear. The trend is for minimalist markings, tone-on-tone embossing or laser cut-outs.
Bags are ecological: Respectful in organic cotton, indestructible in Tyvek, biodegradable in corn.
OUR FAVOURITE: Soft and chic grosgrain labels from HC Etiketter, like ribbons with a message.
Whether they are dressy shoes or sportswear, accessories are everywhere.
Dressy shoes: Shoe jewels shine brightly on tips, heels or bits, in shiny gold, pink gold, iridescent finishes or embellished with diamanté and cabochons. At the same time, studs are still popular.
Thick, straight and transparent heels are at the cutting edge of this trend. Transparent plastic encourages creativity, with effects created by inclusions, engraving, adding colour, etc.
OUR FAVOURITE: Transparent heels like ice cubes from Tachificcio di Molinella.
Elastics for boots are available in herringbone or Prince of Wales jacquard, to better coordinate with suits.
EXCLUSIVE: Elastics from Rifra which can be up to 50 cm wide!
OUR FAVOURITE: Printed trompe-l’oeil elastics (knit, quilting, tweed) From Adornos Clement.
Sneaker eyelets are willingly taking on aged and blackened finishes.
Printed laces are battling it out with weavings like Brazilian bracelets. Coloured plastic tips provide the finishing touch.
Spring in winter: There will be contented flowers, the chattering of insects, colours full of freshness, lacquered plastics that make one think of spring showers rather than frosts – accessories are forecasting a very mild winter.
© Leonardo Frascaroli
The tech touch: These were the reflective laces and cord stoppers in shiny metal for luxury sportswear, zips with an iridescent coating, sports straps and elastics with club stripes for elegant leather goods. It was also the resurgence of neon bringing a refined and energetic touch that peps up the classics, and then the perfect surfaces and the infinitely-repeated patterns that only cutting-edge technology can produce.
© Kolon Glotech
The modernity of wool: Wool is not only visible everywhere, but it also more modern than ever. More designer than rustic, it stands out this season in applications with very clean and precise contours. We use it for sneakers, belts, striped braid, and geometric panels. Neither soft nor foamy, wool is strong, compact, and technical and is chopped with a blade.
© ISG Italian Stylistic Group
© Passamaneria Frassinetti
Black and white + quartz pink: Among all the colours that were so richly displayed in exhibitors’ collections, there was the constant presence of deep black, a very graphic combination of black and white, and quartz pink to bring a touch of evanescence. Calmly, superbly, luxuriously ultra-simple!
© Creazioni Valli
Trends by product
Adopting normal sizes and classic shapes, buttons make their presence felt through their decorations, texture and materials. Miniature landscapes, genre scenes and etchings, either printed or enamelled, appeared on this small accessory, which also likes to dress up in fabric, notably velvet and even fur.
BEST SELLER: The velvet button embroidered in a bullion knot stitch, from Gaforelli.
The crystal shirt button brings an elaborate detail to the classic preppy sector.
Froggings are very elegant, with diamanté, cabochons and silky threads.
We like the shine of buttons in galalith, and blurred effects that are not seeking to imitate wood, marble or mother of pearl but rather adopting unpredictable shades.
Colourful enamelled effects in thick layers on horn, wood, polyester or other materials are still very popular.
© Zanchi Giovanni
Embroidery, lace and trimmings
Embroidery knows no limits: very high reliefs, geometric designs and modern materials delighted visitors.
Trimmings and macramé were still a sure-fire bet. This season, black and gold made an appearance in the collections, notably in military-inspired braids and frogging.
© Passamaneria Frassinetti
NEW: Felt in varying degrees of stiffness from AT+T
Wool appears in compositions that normally tend to be dominated by silk, viscose and cotton.
Guipure is still present but it has a rival in woollen embroidery on an invisible nylon background.
NEW: Passamaneria Frassinetti presents an embossed braid that imitates passementerie.